February surf: 28 days of big waves

Aloha, surfers,

Here’s your first February surf installment - and it’s a BIG one. Right about now (Friday, Feb. 6) waves are above the advisory level criteria of 15 feet (crest to trough or 8 feet local scale). This NW swell was produced by a huge storm near Japan that tracked northeast, covering a large portion of the North Pacific Ocean. The reason it wasn’t 20 feet local scale was its long distance from Hawaii (2,400 miles out).

You see, open-ocean wave size declines at roughly half for every 1,000 miles traveled. For example, if the significant wave height out there was 45 feet and they need to travel 2,400 miles to get here, they’d be about 25 feet 1,400 miles away; 12 feet 700 miles out; then about 10 feet once they jack on the reef. Of course, nature is more complex than this, but it helps with the basic forecast “guestimates.”

There are more waves on the way, too, as it’s still big-wave season for the country (December through February). Things will start to mellow out next month.

 

The other good news is not one, but two out-of-season SSW swells are going to last several days. Now add in the nice trade swells we’ve been having and it’s a surf celebration around the compass! Here we are in the most geographically isolated land mass on the planet and surrounded by waves. STOKED!

Hey, heads up ... There’s a new website called purpletide.com. It’s fresh and fast-loading, giving those in a rush the chance to glance and go. It’s got good info, since it’s powered by SNN (Surf News Network). The team wanted to give everyone the option to choose based on their needs at that moment. Now go get ‘em and enjoy.

Big congratulations to Maui’s very own rippa, 19-year-old Lipoa Richards-Kahaleuahi! She just had an amazing winning streak of four events in the College Women’s Division of the 2008-09 Southwest Conference in California. This exciting surfer is going off in waves far from her hometown of Hana. Lipoa attends UC Santa Barbara as a sophomore, and obviously handles the cold waters very well. With such momentum, it’s possible for her to gun for her first major National Scholastic Surfing Association (NSSA) title in the upcoming state championships. We’ll keep you posted - and best wishes to Lipoa!

The NSSA mission statement: “A nonprofit organization whose mission is to encourage and assist its members in their interest to learn and develop the fundamentals and skills of surfing competition while competing in structured and quality events. The NSSA promotes the qualities of discipline and competitive excellence while supporting the merits of academic achievement to young surfers. The NSSA strives to provide a fun surfing experience for all of its members.”(NSSA.org)

Hey, huge kudos to master shapers and North Shore residents Jeff Bushman and Kyle Bernhardt for receiving the Governor’s Innovation Award for December 2008! They showed their “ingenuity and determination to find creative solutions to critical issues facing Hawaii.” Specifically, Bushman and Bernhardt discovered unique ways to protect our environment in surfboard-making, thus perpetuating the sport of kings while protecting and respecting the ‘aina. The name of their company is Country Feeling Surfboards, and it is devoted to making “environmentally friendly material, including soy- and sugar-based foams; plant-based and solar-activated resins; as well as hemp, silk and bamboo cloth.”

What a great idea from these great craftsmen. I’m sure it’s taken tons of time and effort and cash. Let’s show them our support. Log on to www.countryfeelingsurfboards.com. And remember our state motto for more than 160 years: “Ua mau ke ea o ka aina i ka pono: The life of the land is perpetuated in Righteousness.”

Aloha and happy surfing.

GQ, Dropping in 4 U!

It takes two to tango - and to tandem

Howzit, surfers and beachgoers!

As the last week of January comes to an end, I shake my head in disbelief that it went by so fast. We may as well be watching a surf flick in fast motion - like those high-powered films that make the sun rise and set in three minutes flat! Technology is just mimicking real life. Now, I’d better get more serious about those resolutions or I’ll be doing the same ones in 2010 (I call those re-resolutions).

The surf ‘s been fun, for sure, and there’s plenty in store. There’s a small bump this Friday and Saturday and more this coming Monday. We had a few weeks where we were above seasonal averages, and now we’re below them. Oh, well ... I’d say just stay waxed and ready, log on to http://www.snnhawaii.com and call 596-WAVE.

Last week I did an interview with master tandem dude Bear Woznick, and I didn’t get to finish (time went too fast ...). He’s the owner of the Hawaii Tandem Surf Association (HTSA) and hawaiitandemsurf.com. Bear practices what he teaches and preaches, and you can tell this is his favorite activity - his primary passion. I personally never knew how much there was to it.

Tandem is its own galaxy in the surfing universe. If you want to catch up on our first chat, check out http://www.midweek.com - it has all your archives - STOKED!

GQ: What you’re saying is that there’s a learning curve in technique, finesse and team work vs. raw strength.

BEAR: Yes, and also, if you hurt your partner, you don’t get to tandem cause you’ll lose your reputation. I teach “safety first,” but any good tandem guy can show you the scars he takes on behalf of his tandem partner. For every lift there’s always counter strategy for safety ... and avoiding the board if you fall.

GQ: That makes perfect sense. It’s not all grace and ease until you practice and practice. As they say: It’s not just practice that makes perfect, it’s “perfect practice” that makes perfect.

BEAR: Right. At first, the girl will try to control too much. So I have them close their eyes through the lift. They have to learn to let go ... change their attitude and muscle memory.

GQ: Wow, that sounds pretty scary, but good for these girls who go for it.

BEAR: There’s a whole other element to tandem, and that’s the dynamic between a man and a woman. It’s so powerful.

GQ: In what respect?

BEAR: It’s a connection to really ancient DNA. It’s a real visceral feeling when a man lifts a woman. When she trusts a man ... and he protects her with his skill, strength and savvy. GQ: Ummmm.

BEAR: The woman displays her beauty and her power. It’s a very powerful thing when a man and woman trust each other.

GQ: It’s a basic foundation in relationships.

BEAR: In modern life, a man seldom, if ever, lifts a woman ... just in general. Most women will say it’s the most incredible experience they’ve ever had. For the first time many say they were able to trust a man, and in the process, all this grace and beauty was released through them.

GQ: Wow! That of course begs the question of a romantic transference of all this energy. This could be an issue, right?

BEAR: Sometimes, but I say to my tandem teams that this may feel like love maybe, but it’s not. There have been totally incompatible couples that hook up but later come back and tell me,“Boy, were you right.” I always say to the men you’d better be careful, be real respectful of that woman on that board or you’re off my list.

GQ: Of course, because you can taint the experience.

BEAR: But the flip side is look who I love to tandem surf with the most ...my wife! (Talin and Bear met via tandem).

GQ: The bottom line is surfing and especially tandem has a romantic aspect.

BEAR: If it’s real (love) ... it’s amazing. And if it’s simply pure art and athletics, it’s still pretty amazing, too!

GQ: Where do I sign up?

BEAR: Ha! You know where.

I’ll see you back here in your next MidWeek issue!

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

 

A big Bear of a tandem surfer

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers! What a week it’s been ... what a weekend it will be!

First off, we now have our very first surfer-president (yes, body surfers are 100 percent legitimate surfers).

Second, we just had a very large swell hit Tuesday evening (even Mother Nature celebrated the Surfer-in-Chief,), then we get one more big swell this Friday evening into the weekend.After all this, the whopper wave factory finally shuts down.

Indeed, the last four swells in the series have been B-I-G , but the first few swells were bad (literally). The wave, wind and weather machine kept us in a stormy pattern each time they arrived - that’s because they came so close to Hawaii. Now the jet stream has broken up, and this won’t be conducive to steering the low pressures (storms) our way like before. This is good news for 99 percent of the surfing and beachgoing population - not just for kama’aina, but the entire planet. Most prefer sunny, smooth 4-6 feet over stormy, rainy 10-15 feet, and some prefer the Sandy Beach shore pound like President Barack Obama, while others enjoy sharing the ride ... literally.

 

Meet “Bear"Woznick ... the Molokai Bear in Waikiki. Like his name, Bear’s a big surf dude with muscles to back it up. He needs them - his No. 1 passion requires brute strength as well as finesse,leverage and skill. The art is tandem surfing, and Bear is truly an artist of the surf and sea. His necessary equipment is simply a big surf board, wax and a pair of trunks. The final requirement? A partner - a petite, athletic, female partner, preferably. Then this half-Norwegian Viking is ready to work his magic as he hoists his partner in the air and rides to shore on a fluid canvas. It’s liquid gymnastics, watery aerobics, a dance among four elements - a man and woman, a board and wave.

I had the honor of catching up with this world traveler and newlywed. Take one guess how he met his beautiful, athletic Swedish wife Talin? The thing he loves the most gave him the woman he loves the most.

Bear’s a busy guy and a singular force in the resurgence of tandem surfing.It’s been about 50 years since its first heyday. You can find Bear at 5 p.m. Sundays in front of Duke’s Waikiki teaching and inspiring folks. Bear also owns and operates the Hawaii Tandem Surf Association (HTSA).

For more on that, go to http://www.hawaiitandemsurf.com.

GQ: How’s tandem being received around the world?

Bear: Unreal ... huge.There were 15 pro events last year.

GQ: How many teams are entering?

Bear: It ranges from about eight up to over 30 for the big events like the Duke’s Oceanfest.

GQ: What age groups, and do you have to be pro to enter?

Bear: Teenagers are getting into it and older surfers, too. Most do it just for fun, but some are serious. All our events are sanctioned as pro events, but anyone can get seeded by showing up and doing well.

GQ: Cool.And where are these contests?

Bear: We have them in Australia, Costa Rica, Europe, and West and East coasts ... here, of course.

GQ: Would you say tandem has a unique draw?

Bear: Absolutely, people get it. Even regular people who don’t surf get it. Spectators love it. It communicates and it’s thrilling for all.

GQ: What’s the growth potential?

Bear: Huge, because of the spectator value and overall dynamics. Look at NASCAR, most don’t race cars but they draw huge audiences. Tandem takes talent, but you don’t need to have talent to enjoy the show.

GQ: I figure one has to be a good surfer to tandem, right?

Bear: Absolutely, being a great surfer helps.

GQ:And strong as Superman ...

Bear: It’s really more about leverage and body mechanics ... plus,your partner needs to be about half your body weight.So these factors make all the difference. It’s about timing and technique, too. If you depend on raw strength, you’ll get injured eventually.

Wow, look what happened,I ran out of space. Not to worry, this interview will continue next week.

GQ ... dropping in 4 U!

Wave warriors who ride mountains

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers! How’s this for HUGE waves? Hawaii has received the biggest surf in the world this week - five days in a row! Take out the lousy SW Konas and “west to NW” winds and we’d have some epic stories. But that’s the way our world turns - the wind whirls and the wave breaks. It’s always Mother Nature’s call.

Speaking of “making the call,” it’s not easy to forecast when the Quiksilver “Eddie Would Go” or the BankOH/Atlas Sales North Shore Tow-In Championships will run. It’s one of the most difficult things to do. And there are a lot more than surfers riding on it.

All the competitors don’t have the North Shore as their back yard, so many have to travel thousands of miles to get here for just one day of competition. The contest site takes at least one full day to set up all the scaffolding, Internet connection, sponsor banners, etc. All personnel must prepare, too. Then there’s the all-important security and water safety - if ever there was a time they’d be needed, it’s during these rare, BIG events.

 

Our men who ride mountains are, after all, just men. They may be the bravest wave warriors among us, but they know more than anyone, the ocean must be respected. They must be prepared for battle. They know that on this one day they’ll be pushing their limits. For most of us, just paddling out would be beyond our limit. But the guys trying to win must not just survive, but go for broke - and lay everything on the line. To quote the late, great Mark Foo, who died doing what he loved at Mavericks in December 1994, you must be “willing to pay the ultimate price.”

This doesn’t mean surfers want or expect to pay the ultimate price. I believe Mark meant that the fear of death would not stand in his way. Most of these guys will admit they’re adrenaline junkies ... and fear is why they do it (Laird Hamilton). It truly is the ultimate high. I remember one of my miracle days in the 1980s surviving one 35-foot, closed-out set at Waimea Bay - without catching a single 20-footer. That session kept me above the ground and in the clouds for three days. The initial shot of palpable pump lasted more than five hours. But, alas, now my days getting caught inside 12-footers can nearly drown me. Either prepare or stop.

Such experiences have given me great appreciation for what the boys are doing these days - it’s crazy, really. Big-wave riding is at an all-time high - literally and figuratively. I promise you, just 20 years ago few, if any, would even have imagined the limits blown out of the water the last decade alone.

Sure, the tow-in evolution has lots to do with breaking new ground, but traditional paddle-in is evolving, too. Just this season the biggest waves at Mavericks ever paddled into occurred. And, if I bet my guess, I’ll win when “The Eddie” reveals unsurpassed skill and bravery at the bay.

Stayed tuned to SURFNEWS-NETWORK.COM or 596-SURF, 638-RUSH or 596-WAVE for on or off status this year. There’s still plenty of time left for Mother Nature to make the call ... and the men who ride mountains to answer her.

I’ll see you here next week in MidWeek!

Aloha, GQ ... dropping in 4 U!

Amazing amateurs of the Haleiwa Open

Happy New Year, surfers! First Wave: 2009 is doing fine with a sweet double-plus overhead WNW swell midweek. Then we get some not-so-sweet weather and Kona winds this weekend from a front moving through into next week.

Oh, well, you can’t expect perfect surf and sunshine every day. What fun would that be? Hmmm, let me think about that.

At least Sunday there’s a new sizable NW swell and an even bigger North due Monday. Hard-core surfers will score because they know where to go. And if it’s raining, who cares? We’re going to get wet anyway!

Second Wave: We just finished the world’s longest-running amateur surf contest, the 39th annual HIO or Haleiwa International Open. Can you believe this year, 2009, the contest will hit 40 years straight? That’s definitely a record and one worthy of praise.

Photographer Gary Miyata says contestants were ripping this year. Indeed, the talent pool is as healthy as ever - from male to female, younger to older, shortboarder to longboarder. Overall, it’s a relatively low-key community event but boasts world-class waves and amateurs (with a few pros thrown in for good measure and inspiration, such as Jason Shibata).

There were plenty of divisions, but just to mention a few winners: Sheldon Paishon won Boy’s Shortboard, and Kaimana Jaquias took Junior Men’s. I have to mention ever-young Jock Sutherland, who took second in Senior Shortboard and first in the Grandmaster’s Longboarding. And just in case you didn’t know or were wondering if the surf spot called Jockos has any relation to Mr. Sutherland ... it does.

Some women’s victories went to Yukiko Whiteside (short-board) and Ashley Ahina (long-board). I tell you, I don’t know what the wahines are eating for breakfast these days, but we men better find out if we want to keep competing in the lineup.

This upcoming December, the 40th HIO should prove to be incredible with the biggest turnout ever. I’ll keep you posted at SNN.

A special mahalo to Surf N Sea for its ongoing loyal support, and to Vertra Suncare and Matsumoto’s Shave Ice - all those who helped keep it going all these years in historic Haleiwa town. Stoked!

Thanks also to Gary Miyata of garymcreations.com for always being on location and generous with his talent and time.

Third Wave: Send me some of your surfing New Year’s resolutions and I’ll post a few of my favorites in a few weeks. E-mail .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address). Keep it fun.

Two of mine are to surf a handful of spots I’ve never surfed and to have more “I didn’t know I could do that"moments. Wish me luck.

See you back here next week in MidWeek!

GQ…Dropping In 4 U!

Enjoying the blessings of nature in the new year

Happy New Year, surfers! Wow, that went by fast - 2008 was superb, as we had the most consistent summer surf on record ... sweet.

Now add into the mix the new guard of women - they proved they’re here for good as Stephanie Gilmore won her second world title in her second year on tour, and seven-time world champ Layne Beachley retired. The really young ones, like Carissa Moore and Coco Ho (just to name a couple locals), are making statements heard ‘round the surf globe.

Frankly, the women seem to be showing “most improved” over men.

But at least the men’s old guard is still ruling. Those four gnarly Aussies - Bede Durbidge, Joel Parkinson, Mick Fanning and Taj Burrow - are always right near the top.

And then, of course, there’s still Kelly Slater ... sitting on his throne at the top of the surfing universe. One more title will make it 10, and that should about do it for the full-time super star.

Will he pass the top torch to our Australian neighbors for the next decade? Well, let’s see how 2009 stacks up first.

So far it’s looking good for waves to stack up to advisory levels and above for the long haul. The jet stream, or large upper air currents, are now steering the storms closer, creating bigger waves. The jet is moving east off of Southern Japan and has dropped to low latitudes of 30 to 40 degrees (we sit at about 20 degrees north of the equator); it also currently has a long consolidated flow past the dateline (180 degrees longitude). Since we sit just east of 160, we’re only about 1,000 miles away from these air currents and associated storms. This means larger, more consistent waves like the ones the pros had in late November and early December.

Sidebar: Their timing was incredible with six weeks straight of above seasonal averages, then waves went way below averages through the end of the year.

This is a time when all the hoopla has passed, but the waves are still pumping into April. The hard-core locals can find more “moments” with just their neighbors to hoot and holler at. Actually, I heard many comments about how the North Shore wasn’t as crowded as years past, attributing this to the worldwide recession.

Poor surfers ... who’d have thought?

Deep down, we know that surfers have “deep pockets” of health, happiness and stoke. Our blessings of nature - especially here in Hawaii Nei - are as abundant as Bill Gates’ bank account. We get to be out there pretty much for free and get that priceless feeling we’ve come to depend on - the ultimate high ... just riding a wave.

I’m looking forward to sharing the stoke with you all year long.

A million mahalos for reading MidWeek.

Aloha, GQ dropping in 4 U!

A big wave goodbye to a swell 2008

Happy Hollow Days, wave riders,

I hope you had a blessed Christmas with your family and friends, and that your holiday season is still going off! As we “wave” goodbye to another year, I want to start out with a thank you for reading my column here in MidWeek ... I’m stoked to be part of your surfing life in paradise.

The forecast isn’t the best for December; it’s way below seasonal averages. We must have burned off some of our “BIG wave quota” in late November, early December with those back-to-back-to-back 15-foot (and over) swells. Not to worry, of course, as Mother Nature somehow balances it all out in the grand scheme of things.

The new year is near, and we still await the awakening of our outer reefs for the fifth annual North Shore Tow-In Championships. This will run at either Avalanche outside Haleiwa harbor to the left or at outside Puena Point to the right. Both spots offer a unique set of challenges. Avalanche is a huge topto-bottom left-hander with lots of volume and face. It doesn’t reel down the line as fast as her neighbor just north across the channel. Puena Point barrels down the line for full-speed-ahead surfing.

Last year saw the place go off from 8 to 18 feet with the best “small”-wave performances I’ve ever seen on tow boards. The defending champs, Makua Rothman and Ikaika Kalama, will be on hand and charging hard to ensure their elite status as the North Shore’s top tow team. They have till the end of March to get the heavy water goods they need to run.

Another big-wave event also is in its holding period, but only till the end of February. We await “The Bay” to “call the day” for the QS/Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational. This prestigious contest has run just six times in the last 23 years. The winners - Clyde Aikau, Keone Downing, Noah Johnson, Ross Clarke-Jones, Kelly Slater and Bruce Irons - all can claim a one-of-a-kind place in surfing competition. Just as Hawaii is considered the birthplace of surfing, Waimea Bay stands as the birthplace of big-wave riding.

The conditions have to “average” 20 feet Hawaiian scale or 35 feet crest to trough. This means, of course, that the swell needs to be 15-25 feet during daylight hours with good (vs. stormy) ocean textures. This doesn’t happen very often, to be sure. So we really can’t promise it will go in 2009. What I can promise is that just because you hear surf warnings posted, it doesn’t mean Eddie will go. He needs extra-special, extra-large waves. Good luck to Bruce Irons as he defends his spot as the man to beat at Waimea Bay.

The 2009 Fosters World Tour will kick off on Australia’s east coast Feb. 28 with only 10 events in ‘09 (Fiji is out again). It’s going to be fun seeing if Kelly Slater can nab his 10th title and Stephanie Gilmore grab her third (in a row)! There’s more talent in the water now than ever before ... so you never know. But just to be contradictory, I’m going to claim that these two surfers will indeed be world champs this time next year. Mark my words and make me eat them if I’m wrong. (Of course, Slater hasn’t even committed to ‘09 as yet, so it won’t count if he bows out and retires, OK? Thanks).

For our aspiring amateurs here at home, the Hawaii Surfing Federation (HSF) will kick off at Sandys Jan. 12; it’ll pump out a contest every month until the States June 2-5 at Ala Moana Bowl. This series is the same as the old HASA or Hawaii Amateur Surfing Association, but it’s actually gone back to its original ‘60s name of HSF; a project that took about two years. The hotline is 262-2488. You know there’s going to be a ton of action next year with the above and more, so stay right here and at SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM.

Again, thank you for 2008 and for being here right now in MidWeek.

Stoked!

GQ ... Droppin’ in 4 U!

Surfing phenomenon Kelly Slater

Happy hollow days, surfers! What a season so far! Sure, we’re in lull surf, weather- and tradewind-wise, but things will average out in our favor - guaranteed. We had “all-time” consistency, size and quality for the Reef Hawaiian Pro, the O’Neill World Cup and the Billabong Pipeline Masters. It will go down as one of the greatest years ever for the series’ 26-year history.

The new Vans Triple Crown winner is Australian Joel “Parko” Parkinson. Many (including pros) consider him to be the best surfer in the world because of his milky smooth, lightening-quick, radical style. Many thought he’d be world champ a few times by now, as he’s been runner-up twice and fourth twice. Joel’s always up there; in fact, some think the reason he hasn’t been at the very top is because of his ultra-casual approach. Judges seem to like more visceral competitors who wear their feelings on their jerseys. This guy’s so good, makes it look so easy that it’s deceptive - even to judges!

Well, everyone was claiming that Parko’s performance this year made him the favored, most-deserving champ. I agree. Parko proves it - never give up! He also proved that practice makes perfect with two perfect 10s in one heat at the Pipe (a first-ever in Hawaii).

Good on ya, mate!

I also have to congratulate our young talent from Maui, Dusty Payne, for coming in second in the overall TC ratings. He was leading it all the way into the Pipe Masters before bowing out. I have to say, watching Dusty’s surfing this year in these huge waves and knowing how good he is in the smaller surf, we have a potential world champ hailing again from a Neighbor Island. (Andy Irons was the other). Mark my words: If Dusty wants it, he can have it.

Current world champ (for the ninth time!) Kelly Slater stepped off the plane a few days prior to his heat at the Pipe Masters.He didn’t participate in the other two events. Many were wondering if he’d even show ... but of course, deep inside they knew he’d show - and put on a show - then steal the show. Slater proceeded to win the event by taking out guys like the current Mr. Pipeline, Jaime O’Brien. He was the best, without argument. But it goes beyond his surfing ... it is as though the sea itself favors this man.

I was drop-jawed by what I witnessed. It was mostly all at back-door Pipe (the right off the left). It was the heat of the day; Slater was “comboed” by Californian Timmy Reyes with only six minutes to go in the semis. Timmy had a right-hand barrel worth 9.1 and one other super-high score. This meant that the legend was finished for the day. No one comes back from having to get two high scores in so short a time - unless your name has the initials KS. Timmy let Kelly go on a wave that he shouldn’t have ... as the man posted nine out of 10 (they score your two top waves). All of a sudden you’re going “NO WAY! He’s back in?“Then within 30 seconds, while paddling back outside, an unreal wave comes straight to him - inside of Timmy Reyes! Kelly grabs it and gets stuffed like nobody’s business; he rides the thing perfectly and gets what he deserved - a perfect 10 - all within 90 seconds. I’ll never forget it. He didn’t even have “priority” (first choice of wave), Timmy did. Slater won, commenting, “That was a minute-and-a-half heat.”

“It’s inexplicable,” Slater said of his win and banner season (he won six out of 11 events - another world record). “I’m just stoked. I wasn’t even worried about surfing the event (at Pipe), so to surf it and win and get that board (a Gerry Lopez-designed surfboard trophy), I’ll cherish that for sure.

“It’s like an energy flow,” he added. “I don’t’ know how to explain it any better than that. It seems a little esoteric and ethereal sounding, but it is that way.”

I’d say he’s earned the right to explain his phenomenon however he wants.

Maybe he can create waves for the women’s Billabong Pro. They’ve been waiting for more than five days to finish. There are three women in the running still. I’ll post results at surfnewsnetwork.com.

See you in the lineup and back here next week!

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

An abundance of big waves pound paradise

Aloha, surfers!

Let’s see what dictionary.net has for definitions of paradise: “A place of bliss; a region of supreme felicity or delight; hence, a state of happiness.”

I also like this one: “The earth shall be all paradise.” - Milton.

Indeed, surfers have been blessed in the abundance of paradise these days. The waves keep waving their magic wand over Hawaii - bringing the definition of paradise into focus.

The only glitch could be that there are too many waves - and they’re too big! Pick a place in the world that just had three - back to back - warning level swells of over 25 feet, crest to trough. Hawaii just did - in less than two weeks! There were some waves of near 20 feet at Waimea Bay late Tuesday (Dec 2).

Outer reefs hit that mark as well with peak crest to troughs, or faces ,of about 35 feet! I was out there last week with a friend, commenting how it would be nice if the waves dropped.

 

Most surfers ‘round the globe pray for the surf to come up, but I was praying for the surf to go down.

The whole vibe is elevated when the world’s best competitive surfers go off the hook in such death-defying (or at least, health-defying) conditions.

Sunset Beach provided its very best waves for the very best surfers last week for the grand finale of the O’Neill World Cup. Usually Sunset closes out at 15 feet, but this time there were plenty to ride at this size. I swear one wave looked like Waimea Bay - at about 18 feet, holding top to bottom and pealing! Big-wave maestro and commentator Pete Mel of Santa Cruz made the same observation: “Look at that ... it’s like Waimea!”

Many times during the day the waves washed out and through the lineup, sending everyone scurrying for the channel or bailing under the mountainous white water. Many boards were broken, not to mention some dreams of success ...

Check this out: The guy who won the O’Neill World Cup is from Florida (Kelly Slater’s home) and surfed with his back to the 10- to 15-foot waves! Meet 5-foot-8-inch, 150-pound CJ Hobgood, the 2001 world champ. The last “backsider” to win was in 1997: Mike Rommelse of Australia, but in smaller conditions.

Sunset is already hard enough to gauge and gouge facing the beast. Because of the maxing size he won it in, CJ has catapulted his already awesome career up to the next level.

CJ, 29, and and wife Rachel have a baby girl named Genevieve. They’re devout Christians, and CJ lives a clean, humble life - and just happens to be one of America’s greatest surfer exports. The talented family man knows how to stick to it; he’s been traveling the world on tour since 1997. CJ has never once dropped outside the top 20. Five of those years he’s been top 10. This year he looks good for top five.

On winning the World Cup: “Just some macking nuts waves out there ... My usual experience out at Sunset is just getting worked pretty much. This ranks up there with my WT wins and everything else because I never totally pictured myself winning this contest, so it ranks that much higher.

“That just shows you what Sunset can do. You just roll the dice, go out and sometimes Mother Nature is good to you, and other times she just beats you down. There are four guys out there, but you never really see your competitors the whole time. It’s man vs. nature out there, and that’s what makes Sunset so challenging and appealing.”

We started the Billabong Pipeline Masters on Tuesday Dec. 8 - a “don’t miss this for your life” event! Just three days of competition total and we’re done for the year. Check 596-SURF and 638-RUSH or http://www.surfnewsnetwork.com for ON or OFF status daily.

Lastly, mark this date and be there: this Saturday, Dec. 13, at Haleiwa Joe’s, the North Shore Life Guard Benefit.

Also, log on to get in on the surf flick http://www.walkingonwater.com doing a statewide tour. CJ Hobgood is making guest appearances.

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

World champ Gilmore rips in Roxy Pro

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers, We are firmly planted in BIG wave territory. The famed North Shore has, as of now, three warning-level swells to its credit. This is and was an exceptional early run of outer reef swells. Whenever “that zone” far offshore is breaking, that usually means the normal spots are “washed out” and unrideable. That’s pretty amazing when you consider that Pipe and Sunset can easily hold 12 feet local scale or waves pounding more than four to five times overhead! We’re talking tons of H2O. Well, we had the exception just days ago!

This is the stuff of legend as both the Reef Hawaiian Pro and the O’Neill World Cup have had all-time size and challenge for the world’s best surfers.

I was watching the O’Neill World Cup Dec. 2 in 10- to 15-foot Sunset, and these heroes were actually surviving and handling it! Waves like this would drown half of the planet’s surfers. Sunset had third-reef sets starting around 11:30 a.m. - top to bottom - way out there! The absolute max anyone can ever surf Sunset (the record without Jet Ski assist) is 18 feet, or about 30 feet crest to trough.

You just know the Billabong Pipeline Master Dec. 8-20 is going to do its thing as well with spitting, death-defying barrels - and that’s a good thing. Do not miss it. I’ll let the entire state know on 596-SURF, 638-RUSH and at SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM.

 

The long-range forecast is for a relative down trend for later next week. But don’t be fooled - it’ll still be well overhead, which is fine for most surfers.

Guess what? On Dec. 1 at 12:45 p.m. we gained a new Roxy Pro champ and a new world champ! It’s the same 20-year-old Australian talent who won the world title last year on her inaugural year on tour! Meet Stephanie Gilmore!

The waves at Sunset Point were 3 to 5 feet and perfect for high performance. But, no matter what size, Ms. Gilmore rips. Her style is clean, smooth, yet aggressive and progressive. She’s a com-

petitive animal, too. You would-n’t know it if you were chatting on the beach, as she’s all friendly smiles. Stephanie simply loves to surf, and trains hard at it, too. The absolute best have to have both gift and work ethic.

“I had no idea this was going to happen today when I woke up this morning,” Gilmore says. “Sofia (Mulanovich) went down and then Layne (Beachley) went down and I found myself in the final with a chance to clinch it (the world title). It feels unbelievable.

“The second one (world title) definitely feels better than the first one,” Gilmore continues. “I’m going to savor this one for a while and then readjust my goals for next year.”

What she means is that she’s going to set them even higher - so watch out in ‘09!

These days the depth of the female talent pool has never been deeper, especially with the younger girls. To give you one example, in the Reef Hawaiian Pro final heat it was 36-year-old, seven-time world champ Layne Beachley against three teenagers!

Hey, the 33rd annual Rell Sunn Menehune Surfing Championships finished last weekend at Pokai Bay. The waves were too big to chance ‘em at Makaha. The family affair was - as always - a sweet joy for all.

 

Carissa Moore: another world record at age 16

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers! First wave: The women’s Reef Hawaiian Pro wrapped up last Thursday (Nov. 20) in good lefts and rights of 3- to 5-foot Ali’i Beach. I had just written how Oahu’s 16-year-old Carissa Moore had pick up Nike 6.0 and Red Bull as new sponsors, plus won her first few heats in the contest. I said I wouldn’t “go into all her accomplishments thus far in her short life ... That’s about a book’s worth. Ms. Moore will have a library by the time her career is pau.”

Well, guess what? She won the !@#$ event and became the youngest person (male or female) to ever win any contest in the series’ 26-year history. Carissa won every single heat she entered (six). Plus, she started as a wild card, unlike the “seeded” and “older” contestants. WOW! Another world record at 16 - stoked!

“It was my dream to one day win out here, and I’m really happy,” said Moore. “I was just praying that Layne (Beachley) wouldn’t get one (a good wave). I was really thankful that Coco (Ho) ended up getting that one (in front of Layne). I’m definitely thankful that she is one of my best friends.

“It was an honor to be in that heat with all those girls. It was so close (of a heat) with Layne. And then my really good friends Laura and Coco were surfing really well the entire event.”(ASP World Tour).

 

In second was seven-time world champ Beachley - the most successful female pro surfer ever. At 36 she could be Carissa’s mother. This 20-year gap reveals how impressive both these women truly are: One for adult longevity, the other as child prodigy. Now’s good timing for Layne’s notice of retirement as the younger generation is busting down the door.

Indeed, the “Women’s Reef” will go down as the new guard’s arrival.

Second wave: The men didn’t have to wait long for their final day of competition. It was a hard call to start on Saturday as the weather and waves were nearly as bad as they get. It was pouring rain and blown-out 2 to 4 feet. The issue was not so much the weather but the waves and the lame forecast for Sunday, the last day of the holding period. Event director Randy Rarick had to take it. The good news was the decent chance of the winds clocking around about noon from the NW to SE (the perfect angle for country). Guess what? That’s exactly what went down. The surf become flawless and built to 3-5 feet. Guys like commentator and 2000 Pipe master Rob Machado said he’d never seen Haleiwa like this. Contestants were getting in a barrel fest as the wave machine turned on. Ecstatic statements like “It looks like Jeffries Bay or Cloud 9"popped out. It was a rare occasion ... and what made it nearly unbelievable was how bad it was just a couple hours earlier. We were blessed by Mother Nature, period.

Winning it was a guy from French Polynesia some 300 miles from Tahiti named Michel Bourez. He’s a 22-year-old powerhouse who obliterates waves. He did some gouges that caused spectators to grunt and gasp. He won $15,000 for his animal efforts and qualified for the Fosters WCT Dream Tour 2009!

“That semi was maybe the best heat of my life,” said Bourez. “Everybody was getting barreled - I was screaming my head off. It was so sick. I was having so much fun out there and that’s what I call a good contest. It means a lot to just (qualify for) the World Tour. I’ve been dreaming about this my whole life since I started to surf. I’ve been watching all the best surfers, like Kelly (Slater) and (Rob) Machado, all those guys. And right now I can surf with them. It’s a good opportunity for me and all the Tahitian surfers. I’m stoked for Tahiti.”

The last and only time a Tahitian was represented on the Tour was 1986-1997 with Vetea David. He’s the"nutzoid"who put arguably the world’s heaviest wave, Teahupoo (pronounced Chow-poo) on the map. Best wishes to the new Tahitian guard.

Also in the finals were second-place finisher Jihad Khodr (Brazil);third place, Hawaii’s Kekoa Bacalso; and fourth place, Maui’s Dusty Payne.

Now we’re at Sunset Beach for the O’Neill World Cup and Roxy Pro! And there’s a giant warning-level NW swell on tap for this Saturday and Sunday. Watch out!

I’ll be at surfnewsnetwork.com with the details on waves and weather

See you in the lineup!

GQ, droppin’ in 4 U!

Bonga brings the longboard title back home

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers, The waves are working their magic. The Reef Hawaiian Pro should be all wrapped up before the weekend’s out. The first three days of competition scored beyond expectations as the WNW was reinforced by a NNW swell. Heights at Sunset and other top spots easily got 10 feet, and the conditions were essentially as good as they get. When nature blesses you right off the bat, it lets you breathe easier and believe the future will go “off the hook.“Well, the forecast is backing that faith up. In fact, the final two days of competition should be all-time. Then it’s up to Sunset Beach on Nov. 24 right as a new NW hits for the O’Neil World Cup. After that, the Billabong Pipeline Masters Dec 8-20. I can only imagine ... Stoked!

Here are a few news items I lost space to tell you about. Briefly, in case you didn’t hear: Bonga Perkins has won it again. Sure he wins contests a lot, but this time he won the 2008 ASP World Longboard championship! Bonga blasted through the field Nov. 8 up in the small 3-foot waves in San Onofre, Calif. The event was sponsored by Oxbow, a European surf company.

 

It’s great to have the title back in Hawaii (where it belongs). The last year was ‘97 when Dino Miranda won it. Bonga’s last world title was in 1996. How’s that for longevity and perseverance? At 36, Bonga knows his time is running out before he bows out. The amazing thing is how versatile he is. I can tell you with total confidence he’s one of the most well-rounded watermen in the world, and was “da man” in this event. It’s a good thing for 99 percent of the competitors the contest wasn’t held at 10-foot Pipeline.

The 1978 world champ and current ASP president Rabbit Bartholomew said it beautifully: “As a personal tribute, I consider Bonga Perkins to be one of the world’s greatest watermen. To watch him surf solid Pipe and Backdoor or even playing around at Chun’s is a sight to behold. And in groundbreaking fashion, it was Bonga who really broke down the barriers to stand-up paddle surfing at Haleiwa, even on reasonably hefty days. I remember being mesmerized by his silky skills, Bonga majestically gliding in behind the button at Haleiwa, then performing these big swooping arcs on a 12-foot board, it really was mind-blowing.”(ASP World Tour).

Since the ASP World Longboard tour began in ‘86 we’ve seen nine Australian champs, six Hawaiian, six USA (they separate Hawaii in short-boarding, too) and one Brazilian world champ. USA, Hawaii - let’s crack 10!

Another talent born in the waters of Hawaii is a young 16-year-old lady named Carissa Moore. I won’t go into all of her accomplishments thus far in her short life, that’s about a book’s worth. Ms. Moore will have a library by the time her career is pau, and I’ll need reading glasses by then (no, wait, I need them now). Carissa’s so hot that she and her dad, Chris, have signed up with Nike 6.0 and Red Bull!

“We’re super psyched to have her be part of the Nike 6.0 program,” says Jason Kenworthy of Nike 6.0.“She’s pretty much one of the best girls to step foot on a surfboard - she’s one of the most progressive, naturally gifted stylists. We will continue to support her and help her fulfill her dreams - whether that be contests or free surfing.”(Surfmag.com)

The hard part was having to bid a fond Aloha to her Roxy sponsor of eight years. Yes, she signed up when she was 8. You can do this kinda stuff when you’re a child prodigy. She’ll get on Oprah, no doubt.

“Carissa Moore has grown up with the Roxy brand and will forever be part of our history,” says Randy Hild, executive vice president of Roxy. “We regret losing Carissa but understand that the process of growing up means taking different journeys. We are grateful for all she has given to our brand and couldn’t be prouder.” (Surfmag.com)

The past year school has been her focus so she’s been out of the limelight, sort of - anytime Carissa surfs she and waves light up. I can hardly wait for graduation and watch her take on the planet’s best waves and women. Her comp will need lotsa Red Bull.

As of this writing, Carissa had won her first two heats in the Reef Hawaiian Pro at Haleiwa. She’s got her work cut out for her. Be sure to check surfnewsnet-work.com for all results. They might be there right now if the event is done.

GQ, Dropping in 4 U!

 

Pancho makes it four at the Xcel Pro

Aloha surfers and beachgoers! Wow, its game-on from the getgo for the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. This series is the big boy of all surf contests, and all you have to do is drive north. Hawaii is getting b-i-g back-to-back swells ... and they’re getting bigger each time. Check this out: the first three swells were about eight feet. The next two ones should hit eight to 12, and the last one could too. This is exactly why the North Shore is so famous: the size and consistency are greater than anywhere in the world. It’s a magnet for the world best surfers ... and they’re here right now. For deeper details check SURFNEWS-NETWORK.COM. Remember you can watch it live online too!

The first jewel is the Reef Hawaiian Pro, contested each year at Haleiwa’s Ali’i Beach Park. They’ve already started this five-day event and have until Nov.23 to finish. No problem this year - it’ll be done fast and furious, in epic conditions.

 

The rights are a sight to behold when Haleiwa gets six- to eight-feet and up. They peel 50 to 75 yards down the line into a shallow “toilet bowl” section that has a G-narly reef a few feet below. This always allows for an exciting finish to the wave. It also allows high performances we usually don’t witness until the ASP tour comes to town. It’s that hard to surf, even for those with expertise.

When Ali’i breaks 10 feet and up, the take-off area and drop gets tricky with moguls and bumps… and did I mention the current? Surfers must constantly paddle west (to the left) just to fight this notorious rip.

And this is only the beginning of a freight train ride into near oblivion. The wave stands up on the reef as it marches to shore and throws it’s lip down and around the wave warriors. You need to read this wave carefully and race to make it, weaving in and around the critical sections.

I remember one year when I saw Kelly Slater pull a 360 on a near 10-footer, and Andy Irons pull a floater on a similar-sized beast. Most wouldn’t even dream it, let alone do it.

Haleiwa sits in that heavy, yet high performance zone that pros love to challenge and play in. I can’t wait to witness it all.

Plus, this contest is the second-to-last event on the men’s qualifying series known as the WQS (World Qualifying Series). And it’s the last one for women. If they surf well, they can get onto the “dream tour” with all the very best. If they don’t, it’s back to the grind another year.Yikes, the pressure ... especially when Haleiwa is big.

Well, guess who doesn’t need to do the WQS any longer? Guess who could win the Reef Hawaiian Pro and the entire Triple Crown? He just won the Xcel Pro for the fourth time at Sunset and he’s been acclaimed as the world’s most powerful surfer. Not bad for a 35-year-old - 6-foot, 210-pound Pancho Sullivan! What a sweet finish to his short but sweet three-year career on the Fosters ASP World Tour….winning in his own backyard, the 25th annual Xcel Pro.

Pancho keeps winning when the surf means business. But I suppose the more important business of raising a family is his core focus. Hey, I’d be more than stoked to be able to say I was the oldest person to ever get on the top tour of pro surfing (33) and finished seventh in the world during my second year. I’d be honored to be known as the nicest guy on tour as well.

Pancho is a pro in every sense of the word. Well-spoken, good lookin’ and a talent for the tube and detonating lips around the planet. Hawaii is proud of Pancho ... as are his beautiful wife Jaunani, lovely daughter Kirra and handsome son Kanekoa. Congradz and mahalo, Pancho…well done!

But we know you’re not done. See you in the line up! Stoked!

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

‘Bustin’ Down the Door’ gets busted

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers! Welcome to November! The 25th annual Xcel Pro Championship wraps up by Friday. Of course, that also means the Billabong Pipeline Masters is not far off either (Dec. 8-20). But I get ahead of myself. Hey, while I’m at it ... Happy Thanksgiving, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Though this year has gone by faster than you can say “surf,” I’m pumped to be in the liquid mix. Yes, we’re still awaiting the Waimea Bay-size swells, but we can be stoked with what we’ve had so far: about eight swells since Sept. 15 - including two days of up to 10-foot perfection.

It’s prepping us for what’s coming, as all the BIG boys and girls are frothing for some serious play. They’re flying in now - the best surfers on planet Earth. And the focus is more than points - it’s prestige! Right next to the Foster’s World Title is Hawaii’s trio ... no dispute. You hold one of these titles and you’re etched into surfing’s history book. It’s all going down in our beautiful back yard - the famed, fabled North Shore.

 

I can’t wait to see how our highest-rated Hawaiian surfer Freddy Patacchia (No. 11) is going to finish. His highest rating was his first year at No. 15. Not bad ... not bad at all. He’s goofy foot and loves Pipe ... and it’s in his back yard. He’s going to be charging hard.

I heard through the grapevine both Irons brothers are taking a breather this year. Wow, I’m bummed, but I understand. Andy and Bruce have done so much for our sport and stoke for so many years. Thanks, guys. Enjoy your free surfs, family and friends. And please come back when you’re ready.

Speaking of current pro surfing ... I’d like to step back and take another perspective about its origins in the early 1970s. The story was portrayed recently by surfing icon Shawn Thompson (‘77 champ) and his movie Bustin’ Down the Door. Yes, a handful of daring visionaries from Australia and South Africa did have a huge impact during this period of birthing true professional surfing (not getting a real job).

But was the whole story/picture told? I’ll leave it up to you to decide via your own research. But I’d like to share a few words I had with Hui He’e Nalu founder Eddie Rothman. He was interviewed in the movie a lot; he’s a classic North Shore character with valid views. He was there through it all in the ‘70s, as were dozens of talented, world-class “Hawaiian” surfers.

GQ: What were a few things Bustin’ Down the Door left out?

EDDIE: They left out that Reno Aberilla won the Smirnoff at Waimea ... one or two of the other guys might have made the final, but how’s the disrespect? Not to mention that when Eddie Aikau went to their country he couldn’t even ride on the bus or eat out at a restaurant. Or that Michael Ho and Dane Kealoha got “piled” in their country ... but Rabbit Bartholomew, etc., only mention the slaps they got here.

GQ: I heard about that.

EDDIE: Ian Cairns took Dane Kealoha’s points away two years after I pummeled him on the beach ... making the difference between World Champ and No. 2 (1980). That’s why we had a club party and presented him with the trophy. These guys had too much control over the process at that time.

GQ: That’s mind-blowing ... we would have had a Hawaiian champ 13 years before Derek Ho.

EDDIE: You know who the inventor of modern-day surfing was and is? Buttons Kaluhiokalani! (360s, airs, switch stance ...). He was the man - not Martin Potter, Matt Archibald, Christian Fletcher. Not the ones in the movie. And Shawn Thompson’s not the hero he’s making himself out to be. There are more stories that balance the truth out. But just give credit where credit’s due, you know? Respect.

GQ: Last words ... Somehow the extent of the Hawaiians’ influence was omitted from the BIG picture in Bustin’ Down the Door. When you think about it, why did the world descend on Hawaii’s North Shore? Why was surfing and winning there the ultimate test and proving ground? It’s simple and obvious - they had to! We had the best/heaviest surfers and surf. Our guys and our waves set the standard to measure by. Only by matching or surpassing this standard could you claim true pro-world class status and make a living.

Anyway, the world would only pay attention (and money) if you “handled” in Hawaii. It was foundational for true respect. And, in the end, that’s all Hawaii asked for - come share our waves and let’s build our pro-surfing dreams together.

Just let our surfing and our waves do the talking. Don’t brag and mislead.

It sounds like a fair view to me. GQ, dropping In 4 U!

 

Winter swells, Sunset waves and Menehune

Aloha, surfers,

It’s game on for the winter swells! The 2008 Xcel Pro presented by Honolua Surf Company went on day three of the holding period. Yep, Tuesday, Oct. 28 saw another high surf advisory 6- to 8-foot swells with close intervals. It was generated by a close fetch of winds leaving little time and distance for the swell trains to “clean up and spread out.”

Nonetheless, it is always exciting to watch these hungry locals grab their waves and chances to become “known” in the surf world. Sure, there are more than 100 WQS events annually around the world, but win one at Sunset Beach and you stand out. The world now has its eye on you. You have more “potential” than the average aspiring pro who can surf anything as long as its not jacking and over 6 feet.

Sunset Beach demands guts and good wave judgment. Not to mention plenty of skill. You better be in shape, too. One wave can offer the drop of a lifetime, a thigh-burning bottom turn and a lip hook that’s downright heavy. And, this is the beginning of the ride.

Plus, there’s always that hefty west peak that can “catch” you on the head. It can be brutal out there, but that’s why Sunset is one of the most-respected waves ever ... and anyone who surfs it well is likewise respected.

Assuming the Xcel Pro is still going by the time you read this ... be sure to get there to witness the action. If you happen to be elsewhere and have a computer, go ahead and watch it live at http://www.excelpro.xcelwetsuits.com/2008.

One of the greatest ever to ride Sunset is surfing legend Michael Ho from Sunset Beach. He can still charge it and pick off waves no one else can seem to find ... and he’s in his 50s. I’d match Michael up against anyone near his age and watch him easily win.

Well, Michael has a son named Mason - and he can surf, too. Watch for good things -great things - from this young gentleman. He’s super well-spoken and is great in front of the mic and camera. He’s very humble and mature; plus, he’s got that genetic disposition to compete and win like his dad. Mason just won the Oakley Pro Junior ASP North America Championships in 4- to 6-foot Santa Cruz, Calif. This series is for those 21 and under. Mason is 20. Check to see how he did in the Xcel Pro.

Lastly, not too long ago we had the North Shore Menehune Surfing Champ hit the Ali’i lineup. Skill Johnson’s been doing it more than a few years (32 to be exact) and Franco (hawaiianswell.com) was there again shooting pics of our stoked groms and future surf stars. For lots of kids it’s their first time and, for others, it’s old hat already. Actually, some of these youngsters rip; don’t be surprised to see them “touring” some day.

But it’s still a family affair with a laid-back, hang-loose vibe. There’s lotsa fun in and out of the water - as it should be. I’ll get some results posted at SNN as soon as they’re available. If you missed seeing any photos, just check Franco’s website above.

So, there you go ... Let’s surf now. See you back here next week in MidWeek.

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

On Cloud Nine in the Philippines

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers,

I’m sitting at Patrick’s On The Beach on a tiny island called Siargao (Sar’ gau). It’s on the east coast of the Philippines.

I’ve lived in Village Park for nearly 20 years and had the pleasure of having wonderful neighbors, many of whom came from this beautiful land. And I mean beautiful. It has more charm and charming people than you can imagine - and it’s got world-class waves. There was a time we thought the Philippines had no waves; now we know they have countless waves among some of its more than 7,000 islands. You could spend your whole life exploring.

The main surf spot is “Cloud Nine.” They recently had a WQS event in which a local talent won. The wave is a ludicrous right-hander built for tube riding. It reels at mock speed down the line, getting shallower as you go. The “soft foam” reef is 2 to 3 feet below, and I had my share of scrapes with it (it’s not that soft). Cloud Nine is not for intermediate surfers - experts only. In fact, it’s populated with body boarders who have an easier time “making” the drop and barrel. Not to fret; there are tons of spots you can “outrigger” motorboat out about 400 yards. These are the more gentle waves.

Johnny was our most awesome local boatman. He’s totally stoked on surfing and made our surf trip all-time. Aloha lives in the Philippines. My buddy Ken Hurlburt, who works for Hawaiian Airlines, hooked me up with a buddy pass (he’s also my new best friend - see the photo). We’re already talking about 2009.

Well, the time has arrived for the big-wave competitions. It officially kicks off with the Xcel Pro at Sunset Beach this Sunday, Oct. 26, and continues through Nov. 10. I had the pleasure of spending a little time with Xcel Wetsuits founder Ed D’Ascoli on his 25th annual event.

GQ: First off, a huge congrats to your 25 years and success, Ed. Whatcha looking forward to the most this year?

ED: Matching up the new guys with the more-experienced veteran watermen ... and the fun of it all. Of course, it all depends on the waves.

GQ: Are you winding down and surfing more now that you sold Xcel to Billabong?

ED: I’m not winding down ... I have three more years. My goal is to make the transition so they won’t know I’m missing after I’m gone, and to keep it here in Haleiwa. I’m surfing the same amount.

GQ: Is Reid Inouye (Heavywater Mag) still running it?

ED: Yes, I’m overseeing it and Reid’s got it down. The event runs on automatic pilot.

GQ: What else is new?

ED: This year we’re giving one of our permit days to the Billabong Junior Pro.

GQ: Very cool. I know they got a day off earlier this season.

ED: There’s some good talent who’ll be surfing in both events.

GQ: So how about a few facts, like how much money is there?

ED: It’s an $80,000 WQS Pro and Amateur contest with 132 competitors, half of whom are from here. It can be a huge stepping-stone event for these guys.

GQ: Well, if the past 25 years are any indication, we should get great waves for at least one or two of the three days.

ED: That’s what I hoping for ... GQ: I’ll be ready for your call early this Sunday morning for on, off or standby status.

ED: You’ve got it.

Well, that wraps it up for this week. Be sure to call 596-SURF or 638-RUSH or visit surfnewsnet-work.com for the Xcel Pro 2008!

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

 

There’s waves galore on the North Shore

Howzit, surfers and beachgoers!

Waves galore! The North Shore had its first real swell with superb conditions and town has stayed up long after bedtime. This means everyone is happy on every shore. The good news is the forecast models show no signs of stopping its swell production. Stoked!

The first big wave-riding competition of the season is coming up Sunday (Oct. 26) and continues through Nov. 10 at Sunset Beach. It’s the 25th annual Xcel Pro. Owner Ed D’Ascoli is proud of this achievement and grateful to the surf and North Shore community for the amazing support all these years.

It seems Sunset is happy, too, as less than a handful of years haven’t gone off the hook with at least 8-footers to ride. The playing field is huge - up to two football fields. The waves jack and bend with a mind of their own. The surfer’s job is to avoid getting caught inside while nailing the best waves in a short time span. The wave isn’t easy, as the photo shows - even pros like Kieren Perrow get their share of wipeouts and embarrassment.

The best deal is to get your tail up there and feel it and see it all.

But don’t worry if you cannot make it up there. It’s going to be live again on the World Wide Web - log on to xcelwetsuits.com and click the surf link. Surfing Live will be bringing it.

This year should be special with a good long-range forecast expected. These guys surfing in the Xcel Pro will grab valuable points in the World Qualifying Series for next year’s tour. Plus, those who perform well here not only get the points (and cash), they get something that’s priceless ... RESPECT!

I’ll have a nice interview with Xcel Ed when I return from a surf trip!

See you back here next week in MidWeek!

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

Looking forward to North Shore swells

Howzit, surfers!

Here’s the first surf installment for Rocktober - and we are rockin’. The endless summer continues with plenty south swells to stay wet. We have seen entire months of June, July and August worse than this October. We have actually averaged 1-3 feet so far, and there’s more to come from the Land Down Under. It’s called the “austral spring” and refers to the Southern Hemisphere (our fall, their spring; our winter, their summer). Even the storms spin in the opposite direction of ours up here north of the equator. Oh, if you’re really paying attention, even their toilets flush clockwise. Not to worry; they work just as well as ours. Thankfully, this opposite spin works for the surf, too.

So just a quick review for you: Lows (storms that make clouds and waves) spin counter clockwise in the North Pacific and highs (winds that make sunshine and trades) spin clockwise.

It’s a wonderful time when all shores can be firing in the fun zone. Actually, country could be coming up real nice this Sunday and Monday. It should be fall’s biggest yet - near advisory levels of 15 feet crest to trough. Some models are somewhat mixed at this point so ... We’ll keep eagle eyes on it with the best team of observers in Hawaii nei. Just log on to snnhawaii.com and that’ll take you to surfnewsnetwork.

You know it’s just a matter of time before winter-caliber waves take over that infamous stretch of beach known the world over as the North Shore. This mecca of surfing never disappoints ... overall. Oh sure, there are times when you have off and the surf does, too, but if you tally the scores and average them out over four months, country gets the most consistent and sizable waves anywhere in the world. Add a big period to the end of that sentence.

Another guarantee: This phenomenon attracts the best surfers on the planet. The entire Association of

Surfing Professionals’ season ends at Pipeline - and for good reason. Their chances are superb for a breathtaking finale. The Vans Triple Crown will have you standing on your feet at one point or another.

And while Kelly “Cloud 9” Slater already has his ninth world title under his board, you can bet your quiver he wants to finish off No. 1 at Pipe, too.

But you can bet Andy Irons, Jamie O’Brien and a few other local Pipe Masters legends want to stop him. I can’t wait!

I like to get ahead of myself. Well before the Vans goes down in history, the 25th annual Xcel Pro will start it all off Oct. 26 through Nov. 10. Indeed, this is the official kickoff to the entire season of big-wave riding competitions. The venue is none other than jump-and-jacking Sunset Beach. The playing field is the largest and trickiest of any spot on earth. This is exactly why the best surfers love it - if you come close (and you can only come close) to mastering this place, you are ... well, a master of surfing.

Ed D’Ascoli will be on hand for the 25th time. Oh, yes, though he sold his Xcel baby to Billabong last year, he’s still going to be a little clingy. His wet-suit company is one of the best out there. Ed and his team have worked together to win top awards (I own the Xcel Infinity and it is the best), beating out the likes of O’Neil, Ripcurl and Quiksilver! It truly has been Ed’s most Xcel-lent adventure. Don’t miss my interview with Ed next week, and most definitely don’t miss the contest: http://www.xcelwetsuits.com/surf.

See you out in the Xcel-lent lineup and back here next week for an Xcellent interview.

GQ ... dropping in 4 U!

Pure stoke when the surf gets serendipitous

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers! Welcome to Rocktober! The waves backed up the new month up with some good-sized North swell.

Trouble was a cold front coming down the Island chain along with the surf. Weather and wave conditions weren’t perfect. The good thing is that we expected the front to come along for the ride. And, hey, I don’t mind a little imperfection - it makes me appreciate the cleaner, brighter days. These periods bring my expectations in line with reality.

One thing I love is when my expectations are not met - in a positive way. Think “serendipity” ... “Look for something, find something else, and realize that what you’ve found is more suited to your needs than what you thought you were looking for,” said Lawrence Block.

Or how about “Serendipity is looking in a haystack for a needle and discovering a farmer’s daughter.” That’s from Pek van Andel.

There’s also Peter H. Reynolds: “Serendipity is putting a quarter in the gumball machine and having three pieces come rattling out instead of one - all red.”

For us surfers in town this past week, serendipity was “Expecting October’s south swells to go down, but they go up.”

Indeed, the land Down Under wave machine pumped up some fun sets from the SSW. We’re way past town’s prime time for swells. Thank God for “surf serendipity.”

I wonder if this word (Persian origins) inspired the Disney lyric,“Zippity doo da, zippity eh, my, my my, what a wonderful day!”

The thing I love about surfing is how we get to experience this concept of serendipity more often than most sports enthusiasts. Yes, I’m biased, but I’ll back it up.

You see, our sport depends entirely on the blessings of the powerful forces in the known universe: nature, and one of the most powerful forces on planet earth, the ocean. These forces determine to great extent our stoke, expected or unexpected. We are at their mercy.

Thing is, waves are merciful and gracious much of the time (at least here in paradise).

Yet so many variables come to play in finding that magic session. When you paddle out thinking you had something less ideal coming. Then the wind shifts off-shore, the sun breaks and the surf builds ...a nd no bodies on it ... except for you and your best friend.

You spend the next few hours going round and round, wave for wave, hooting and hollering in utter bliss. You get outside and look at each other with a permanent grin and shake your head in disbelief.

Then ... you want more ... and more often. The bar has been raised deep inside our brains on Mother Nature. If she gave us this “freebie,” why can’t we have it all the time? Come on, we’ve been good boys and girls, most of the time.

The next day you return for more surf serendipity, but alas the surf dropped, the wind is blowing onshore, there’s a crowd and ... it’s raining. Now tell me this isn’t more painful to these two surfers who had it the day before. Ouch!

Well, whatcha gonna do? Go surfing, that’s what! No matter what, always keep surfing. Your special day will come. Why not increase the odds?

To increase your odds you can also log on to SURFNEWS-NETWORK.COM. (I know, a blatant plug, but I have to increase my chances of making a living.)

Last but not least, the Hawaiian South Shore Hawaii Blood Bank drive Saturday October11! The event will be at 320 Ward Ave. You can save three lives - in just 20 minutes.

But we need to register early, like today. Let’s unite in the Aloha State and give ‘em what we got! Log on at HAWAIIAN-SOUTHSHORE.COM and click the link “blood drive.”

Mahalo.

Thank you so much for sharing your time with me here in MidWeek. See you in serendipitous surf!

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

 

Waiting for those northwest swells

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers! This past week saw the overall tiniest surf on all shores all year.

Oh, well, stuff happens. And as we all know, the surf will come - it always does. In fact, as of Thursday we started surfing fun north-angled waves again, and this weekend should get a small boost in town. There are more good times for most shores next week as well. For those wondering when the 8- to 10-foot NW swells will hit ... so are we. So far, we are below fall averages.

It’s onward and upward for the world’s best now in France for the Quiksilver Pro at Hossegor. Now that I just looked at the forecast, they will have a winner of event No. 7 out of 11 by the time you are holding this issue. It won’t be long before these amazing athletes are in our own back yard - mid-November through Dec. 20 - for the Vans Triple Crown.

This year one cannot speak of pro surfing without mentioning the Kelly Slater factor. In fact, he may already be the world champ. You see, I’m writing on Tuesday and tonight they should get enough surf size to finish. If Slater wins the Quiksilver Pro, and No. 2 Taj Burrow falters before the semis, we have a new champ. This is unlikely as Taj is on fire. But it’d be another ridiculous record, as no one has ever won surfing’s most-esteemed title with four contests left!

Log onto http://www.surfnewsnetwork.com to get all the scoops. I’ll be watching to see how my words pan out.

Coming this weekend is a cool event. Local Motion, BayVI (basics) surf wear and SNN are teaming up for the second annual “Paparazzi” shoot out at Kaisers. The idea behind it is simple: Regular surfers get professional shots of themselves. But it does-n’t stop there - each of the 48 surfers will get coverage in Heavywater Mag with a chance at a double-page ad! All levels are welcome and so is the good vibe. Food will be in hand and music in ears. Ron, the owner of BayV1, loves to do grass roots stuff ... you know, get back to the basics. Let’s hang out in the water and have some fun - plus some extra splash. I’m always wearing their super comfortable stylish T’s. From what I hear they’re not stopping there - be ready for the BayVI line of trunks coming soon. I claim support for our young local surf companies dropping into the surf brand wave. It is not easy.

Hey, it may be a month away but I gotta say the Xcel Pro presented by Honolua Surf Co. will light up Sunset Beach from Oct. 25 to Nov 10. I promise that by then we will have surfed near 10-foot NW swells in the country. And, with Ed D’Ascoli’s luck, we’ll see some more 10-foot swells firing down the line for this Four-Star, 80K, WQS event! The Xcel Pro is the official kickoff of the big wave competitions on the infamous North Shore. Plus, this one’s special - it’s the 25th annual! Hard to get my head around that number, but that’s a fact. It will be live streaming worldwide once again, too. I can feel the blood rushing and the butterflies flying.

OK, that’s it for me and you this week in MidWeek. Be sure to be back here where you belong - same time and same place next week.

GQ, Dropping In 4 U!

 

Swimming around Oahu for a cause

Aloha, surfers and beach-goers! Someone flicked the surf switch - it’s fall, and it’s game on for the North and West shores! Just this week we had our first real NW swell of the season, peaking 5 feet solid Sunday and Monday. Then Thursday it was even bigger. There’s a smaller pulse this weekend and another overhead swell Tuesday, Sept. 23. How’s that for a switch? Yet, town still has waves, too, with more next week. This is evidence far beyond a reasonable doubt that we live smack dab in the middle of paradise. As Lex Brodie says, “Thank you very much!”

Thank you very much to Alec Cooke,aka Ace Cool.SNN reporter, big wave pioneer, Ace finished swimming around Oahu last Sunday at around 5 p.m. He started 10 days prior out of Haleiwa harbor and swam counterclockwise; he ended up at the same spot - blisters, bloodshot eyes and all. I was there and gotta say he had more energy than anyone - and I had a nap! He was pumped as usual, talking story a mile a minute. A little slow moving and sentimental, but most of us would be still - or dead. How many people do you know can swim about eight hours a day for 10 days straight? This was an amazing feat for any athlete, any age.

I thought Ace was just a surfer, you know? But I was wrong. I was shown the map and the areas he swam and the areas he boated (shark and military zones). I was blown away trying to picture myself trying such task. I would-n’t even want to try. But Ace is bold, brash and a big dreamer; he backed it up with a grueling successful adventure - for a good cause. The crew was camping out at various locations - once in the pouring rain under a park bench. Ace literally slept one night in a puddle! Then he got up at dawn and swam all day - all day!

Why? To raise awareness of our coastal conditions and get her cleaned up. As you might already be aware, we have problems. Our precious coastline and near shore reefs are hurting here and there. And they’re getting worse.

Hey, if Ace takes in a little or a lot of self-promotion, who cares? He deserves it.No one has ever even tried what he just did. It is a big and beautiful idea, and it demanded a ton of sacrifice. So if Ace Cool can swim 100-plus miles in 10 days around Oahu, you and I can pick up a piece of trash on our way to or from the water.We can write our local congressman or woman. We can vote appropriately.We can donate money, and our time. And we can leave the monster marathon man to do what he does best: Promote and be in the water.

Thank you, Ace, for always dreaming big and going for it! You’re a true character and an inspiration to many. Log on to acecool.org for more details.

Also,thank you to Capt.Na’ilima Ahuna and first mate Chris Collins for watching over Ace the entire way. Also, big mahalos to Matt Buckman of Buckman Boats for all his support and help. And to Banzai Betty Depolito for her video coverage and PR. Log onto banzaibetty.com if you need any sports promo. Lastly, to Joe Green and the Surf n Sea ohana for letting us play in their back yard.

Elsewhere, on the Foster’s World Tour, event No. 7 at Trestles, guess who won his fifth contest of the year? More on him here next week, or go to surfnewsnetwork.com. Now the crew’s in France for the Quiksilver pro Sept. 19-28.

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

Sunny days and keeping the country country

Howzit, surfers!

No, wait ... I know how you’re doing - awesome! This last south swell was among the best all year - and in September! I feel lucky, don’t you? That massive storm east of New Zealand in late August had some 60-knot winds and up to 40-foot seas and tracked near-perfect for the Hawaii swell window. She generated easily 4- to 6-foot sets for three days - a rare event. I’m exhausted, but couldn’t be happier. This week added some overhead SSE swells along with a tiny NNW, spreading stoke around every shore on every island.

Wave No. 1: California catches our south swells a few days later and therefore scored heavily for the Boost Mobile Pro at Trestles. Day one kicked off in 3- to 6-foot perfection on Monday, Sept. 8. Wild card Sunny Garcia (who’s been hanging out in France) came to town ... then went to town, beating Taj Burrow and Chris Ward! These two are full-time, top-touring (younger) pros: Burrow is No. 4 and Ward is No. 19. In fact, Trestles is “Wardo’s” home break, and he surfs it more than anyone on tour. It just goes to show why Sunny was No. 1 back in 2000 and owns more Vans Triple Crown titles than anyone. When he sets his mind to it ... watch out! He hopes to qualify for the 2009 ASP World Tour, and he’s real close. If Sunny pulls this off, he’ll be the oldest surfer to ever qualify for the “Dream Tour.” Pancho Sullivan holds the record at 34; Sunny will be 38! It would be one of the great comebacks in surfing history.

Wave No. 2: I recently spoke with my surfing buddy and long-time North Shore resident Gil Riviera. Gil’s always been involved with preserving the North Shore’s blessings of nature. He’s a happily married dad of two and all-around great human being. Now he’s stepping up his game on behalf of the community and values we believe in: Keeping the country country - for us and our future generations. He wants to represent his rural district from Kunia Camp to Laie.

The difference with Gil is what the word “represent” means for him. It means getting things done - for us and the land. He’s naturally a doer and a mover. That’s why his friends, associates and campaigners say “Gil gets it done.“This propensity comes from a good place.“It’s the people, the place, the community ... the waves, the weather. My passion has been built on my work over the past years such as the Turtle Bay expansion crisis and the traffic problems we experience every day here (like Laniakea). I also want to help lower or remove taxes from food and medicine to help the less fortunate struggling with our high cost of living. Also, we’ve got to revitalize agriculture if we are to ‘keep the country country’ ... I want to give farmers the infrastructure they need to farm. There’s not enough leadership in the Legislature for this goal. Also, I’m not anti-development, I’m anti-‘inappropriate development.’ Let’s proactively build instead of letting it happen by default. We’re at a serious crossroads for this island; what balance do we want between our rural and urban areas? I’d much rather get up and get something done about it.”

As for me, Gil is an inspiration.

The least I can do is put down my vote in the primary election next Saturday, Sept. 20. No matter what party, no matter where we live in Hawaii, it’s still our Hawaii. It doesn’t happen often. This is when the set is rolling in for you and I to make change and create influence. Let’s drop in and ride this wave all the way to shore.

I’ll see you at the voting booths, in the lineup and back here next week in MidWeek. I’ll be telling you about Ace Cool’s (Alec Cooke) swim around Oahu to raise our ocean and coastal awareness.

GQ ... dropping in 4 U!

The youths are making waves

Welcome to September, surfers! Looks like town takes the front seat and country takes the back seat for now. This current beauty from the south is going to be felt into early next week. But it’s only a matter of time before town goes to sleep and country starts waking up. It’s the season of transition ... and for now, we get to traverse the extended summer swells.

Last Sunday (Labor Day weekend) the fun 5-miler “Haleiwa Joe’s Paddle Board Race"went off from Waimea Bay to Haleiwa. Of course, they had a SUP (stand up paddle) division - 40 percent of the total! The thing I like about it is how it’s getting people out there who wouldn’t otherwise be getting as much exercise. The thing I don’t like about it is it’s getting people out there catching too many waves ... that I could catch. Seriously, though, most SUPs have been extra respectful of their paddling advantage and don’t push it like many long boarders do. We can all get along - imagine that!

Getting along wasn’t hard at all for more than 100 competitors in the Haleiwa Joe’s Paddle Board Race. In fact, everyone just had a blast. Especially the youths, who are now making waves for the older paddlers!

Check this out: Riggs Napoleon (Aaron’s 10-year-old son) beat 20-year-olds! This was the first time contest director Mike Takahashi has seen so many youngsters going for it.“They’re completing the course and in good time ... the second generation is really strong.And for the really young kids ... it’s a sight to behold since they’re so small ... it almost looks like they’re knee paddling.”

Another up-and-comer, who could end up in the Olympics some day if he desires it enough, is 15-year-old Chris Fong (Dr. Fred and Bonnie’s son).This athlete also took down 20-year-olds while winning the 15-19. Mike Takahashi’s son Holden won his 14 and under, but also passed all the 20-year-olds. Talk about holdin’ his own (I had to write that).These kids are lucky to have inspirational parents, too. Dads like Aaron Napoleon, Mike Takahashi and Fred Fong are great paddlers and have passed on their genes and love of the ocean. Mike and Fred just took the kids to Bali and surfed at least four hours a day. Hey, it’s training, dude!

Congrats to the overall winner Brian Rocheleau, who did it in 41:53, and to SNN’s account executive Chas Beasley for a fifth over all! Complete results will be posted at http://www.surfnewsnetwork.com.

In the final analysis,everyone was a winner who came out to play and have fun. Like Mike Takahashi said, “it’s all about community.“Mahalo to Haleiwa Joe’s ... Why am I hungry all of a sudden?

Well, gang, get ready for the Foster’s seventh WCT event at Trestles starting this Sunday. The forecast looks good, too. This California wave is definitely one of the best high-performance waves on the entire world tour. Expect a packed house, packs of flying water and surfers.

Hey, I have to tell you about the new Diamond Head surf cam coming up this week! The view will be sweet. Just log on and you’re in. Chun’s Reef is up, too, and serving you!

I’ll see you in the lineup and back here next week in MidWeek!

GQ ... Dropping in 4 U!

The women rule at Duke’s OceanFest

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers, Here we are, last week of August, last week of summer. The good news is we’re heading into some fun surf on all shores for a while. The North Shore continues to prove we are past our summertime minimums, and South Shore swells prove to be long-lasting into September. By this Friday, the surf should be near three feet into early next week, if all goes well. So stay waxed and ready, wave warriors.

Duke’s OceanFest scored fun waves all week - even with a disappointing SW swell. Yes, the sun, sand and surf were plentiful in this “Gold Medal” ocean sports festival. The energy is always high, win or lose. But I have to tell you about one winner, at least, because she is special.

Congratulations to Candice Appleby for her victory not only in the women’s amateur SUP (stand up paddle board) division, but also the Pro Men division!

Watch out for this woman as she busts down the barriers between the sexes. I mean, you try to beat Brian Keaulana!

“Today was a total dream come true,” says Appleby, 23, a student at UH-Manoa, where she studies tropical plants and soil science. “I live right down the street and I surf here every day. I’ve just been really focused and training hard. I can’t really say I was nervous. I felt honored to be in a heat with them. All those guys (in the final), I learned from watching them, and they have inspired me to do what I do.

“Given the conditions, I think it’s whoever really wants it the most. You’ve got to be 100 percent with your mind, your body and your spirit. The ocean conditions did play a part, but it takes your personal strength to get you through.” (from Jodi Wilmot and DukeFoundation.org)

Thanks to C4 Waterman, Honolua Surf Co. and Blue Planet for sponsoring this great new addition to Duke’s OceanFest. Here’s a thumbs up for the resurgence of an old surfing tradition, combining canoe paddling’s paddle with long-boarding’s surfboard.

OK, here’s another talented pretty woman who also can take the guys down in competition. But Joy Monahan (22) decided to give us boys a break and only surf the Roxy Jam in Duke’s OceanFest. “It has been an amazing summer, one of my favorites for sure,” says Monahan, who now heads back to college in Utah.“I was more nervous for this contest than I was for the world title, just because I think I put a lot of pressure on myself. But once I just told myself that I proved everything in France and this is for fun, I was able to relax. (Joy is the first-ever women’s world longboard champ from Hawaii)

“I grew up surfing here, so I consider it one of my home breaks. It was awesome to be back here, it’s been a while since I was in an event here.”(from George Mojo: Dukefoundation.org)

Now check this out: The girl who came in second was 15-year-old up-and-coming (I should say arrived already) Kelia Moniz, daughter of Hawaii surfing legend Tony Moniz. Wow, what a surfing family! Kelia was the best nose rider of the event. If she had grabbed just a couple “set” waves outside, she might have beat the world champ - go figure.

“I was stoked to make the final and get to surf with all my friends,” says Moniz. “I was just trying to catch the little ones that had a wall to them, because I could just nose ride them, but it didn’t really work in the final.”(from George Mojo)

Well, all I can say is, boys beware - the girls aren’t going anywhere but up. Good luck keeping up.

That’s what I’ll be doing this week in the sun, sand and surf. Hope to see you out there and back here next week in MidWeek.

GQ, Dropping in 4 U!

 

Island girls who surf show their stuff

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers! You must be smiling right now with all the sun, surf and action in the lineup. We are right in the thick of another southwest swell to be felt through the weekend. We are also into the last weekend of the seventh annual Duke’s OceanFest, which scored great waves all the way through! With more swells on the forecast and trades blowing though sunny skies, it will be easy to keep smiling!

Hawaii is definitely one of the most enthusiastic places on the planet for partaking in ocean competition. There are more than 200 events (surfing, paddling, fishing, canoeing and diving) annually, without a single weekend off that I know of. And that’s fine with me - just as long as I can keep up and keep surfing.

The Girls Who Surf and the Sea Hawaii/One Love Surf Shop events scored up to 5-footers at Kewalos Aug. 16. Kewalos is one of those spots that “funnel” wave energy, so they’re a foot bigger than the average break. The girls handled it beyond beautifully.

What a venue! You sit on the break wall 50 yards from the action ... and action there was! These ladies in the Pro Am side are our best in the Aloha State, and therefore the best in the world. With names like Carissa Moore, Naje’ Melamed, Aleesa Quizon, Crystal Dzigas, Leah Dawson, Alana Blanchard and others, you can’t go wrong. In fact, above-average scores were the norm the entire weekend. This wave often re-forms inside, allowing for those extra points, punts and carves.

The standout of the event in the pro division was none other than local phenom Carissa Moore, who won three separate events: short- and longboard, and the newest division, FLHI Girls Trick! The way some surfers rip - it all looks tricky to me!

Some amateurs of note were winners: Ashely Ahina on long-board, Shrutti Greenwood on shortboard, Christina DeLima on bodyboard. Congratulations to all the competitors for giving it their best. During this historical Olympic period, it’s easy to get pumped for personal records.

And a huge mahalo to Banzai Betty Depolito for her perennial support of women’s surfing, and to Cherrie Fu, contest director and owner of Girls Who Surf - take a lesson from them and score some stoke! Then see you next year winning some heats!

Duke Paoa Kahanamoku is smiling down upon his seventh annual OceanFest in Waikiki. He is likely pleasantly amazed at the record 20 separate events now taking place. It just keeps growing and growing and growing. So does the support of his foundation, which benefits our young Hawaii athletes. Yes, we are hopeful this will be another record year for the Outrigger Duke Kahanamoku Foundation. Thank you, too, for helping.

One true classic and unchanging art form is tandem surfing. I hope you have the chance to see it. The HTSA or Hawaii Tandem Surf Association is making inroads to keep this tradition alive and well. Duke’s OceanFest is the perfect venue. Surfing as a partnership requires unique skill sets. The final result is beauty and athleticism. The first photo of this amazing sport was in the early 1920s! Now tandem is making a comeback and is here to stay. For more details ... you know the drill… log onto www.hawaiitandemsurf.com.

Also, you can watch the Duke all live from your desktop computer - log on to www.dukefoundation.org.

Again, mahalo for your support.

I’ll also post complete results for both the above competitions on www.surfnewsnetwork.com. The girl action can be found on FLHI Girls TV on OC-16 next month.

It’s hard to believe we’re in the final stretches of the great summer of 2008.

See you back here for the last week of August.

GQ ... dropping In 4 U!

 

It’s time again for Duke’s Oceanfest

Howzit, surfers and beach lovers!

The forecast has improved over the first weeks of August. Nothing major ... actually minor ... until a Tazman Sea swell saves the month starting Thursday, Aug. 21. The swell was massive with severe gales (45-50 mph) and 30-foot seas. Now the trick is for these swells to needle their way through hundreds of islands of Fiji and Samoa.

This puts a bigger question mark on the forecast. But the last few such swells have been great, reaching heights of isolated 5 feet local scale (3 to 4 feet overhead). These looked very similar to this current one, with near 20-second periods. (See my Aug. 1 article for an explanation on wave energy). The other great news is that this one coming will last about five days. Stoked!

Well, here we go with the seventh annual Duke’s Oceanfest! The opening ceremony is Sunday, Aug. 17, on the world’s most famous beach.

There are more events than you can shake a board at ... or whatever you’re using to compete with. Is it a paddleboard, canoe, volleyball? Is it a C4 SUP, long or short board or just a swimsuit and goggles? Whatever it is, it’s sure to be off the hook with energy and aloha.

The usual suspects (and more) will be there. The beach boys, Rabbit Kekai Keikis, the tandem teams, the legends, the celebrities, new, upcoming pros, Jim Fulton and logistics crews, volunteers galore, local and visiting spectators, past and future champs ... and more. Of course, the spirit of Duke Paoa Kahanamoku will be there, too. Come down. See it. Feel it!

Yes, it is the father of modern surfing who inspired this week-long festival in Waikiki. He gave back so much, so it is only fitting that we do the same in his honor. All funds raised go to the Outrigger Duke Kahanamoku Foundation (ODKF) - this goes to our Hawaii athletic youths as college scholarships and grant programs. Last year alone the event raised more than $30,000!

The BIG news this year: You also can watch it live on the Internet! If you can’t be there 24/7, you can watch 24/7 ... well, almost.

No competition in the dark. Go to dukefoundation.org.

Oh, I’d like to tell you - this year the best tandem teams on the planet will be on display Wednesday through Saturday. Log on for scoops at hawaiitandemsurf.com. Special thanks to Bear Woznick for holding it up!

Also this weekend, Saturday and Sunday, it’s the “Girls Who Surf ” amateur and Sea Hawaii Pro-Am events at Kewalos. Everyone seems to be lucking out as we expect a boost up in the surf all weekend long. This always has a great vibe. And, guys, some girls will be there, to say the least. And many can surf better than you.

So get down there and show ‘em some of your support - maybe they’ll give you some waves!

Log onto girlswhosurf.com. Special thanks to SNN reporter “Banzai Betty” Depolito for handling the pro-am side. Also, to Sea Hawaii and One Love surf shop for supporting women’s surfing.

This weekend I’m jumping over to Kauai to grab the mic a little (and surf a lot) at the 10th annual Kauai Surfing Association Ho’onua O Ke Kai Ocean and Surf Festival! There’s two days of comp at two very different surf spots: PK’s and Shipwrecks. The latter spot loves to get body surfers and boarders barreled a bunch. So that’s where we’re putting these competitors. It’s hollow and over sandstone reef with waves similar to Sandy’s. It’s also on the southeast shoreline.

Then the “regular” surfboarders will hit the wave machine of PK’s on the south side. This place always picks up swells, so it’s sure to be fun. The outside has a left that reforms on the inside right-hander. This is where lots of aerial specialists punt their latest moves.

Plus, the venue is sweet. You sit right on the small coastal cliff of grass fronting the Prince Kuhio condos. It’s a big family affair.

Well, I ran out of space ...imagine that. Guess I’ll have to go surfing.

See you in the lineup, at the events and back here to get covered next week in MidWeek!

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

 

Bruce Irons does it his way - and wins

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers! First Wave: Here we go! It’s the last month of summer. Sure as the long-range forecast, the surf has yet to match up to June and July’s record high standards. You may be thinking, how can that be? There have been no giant swells as in years past. That’s correct. What I’m referring to is the number of days we’ve had 4- and 5-footers local scale, not the freak swells. Most wave warriors prefer this “moderate plus” stuff. The thing is consistency. What would you rather ride - five 3- to 4-foot swells per month or one 6- to 8-foot swell? I mean, that’s what the North Shore is all about, not town. I’ll take consistency - it adds up to pure stoke!

Second Wave: What do you get when you take the pressure off top surfers in the Fosters World Champ Tour? You get a winner. Just look at Bruce Irons - he’s been banging away at the tour’s top talents for years with not one victory. This fact is stunning. Then, just as he announces his retirement after this year, he wins the Rip Curl Pro Search “somewhere in Indonesia,” beating North Shore ripper Freddy Patacchia. Irons is now sitting pretty at No. 10.

The strange thing is, Bruce has been regarded as one of the best surfers on the planet for nearly a decade. Like his bro Andy, many thought a world title was guaranteed. Bruce is regarded as the best backside tube rider (along with Kelly Slater). He’s won the Pipe more than once by sheer gift and the “most popular” vote numerous times by his total package. The guy can do all the airs - and higher than most. His style is flawless and powerful, yet radical. The better the waves, the better he gets.

Bruce is just his own man calling his own shots, in and out of the lineup. What you see is what you get. Surf hard ... party hard. I think this is why he’s one of the world’s most-popular, well-known (and well-paid) surfers on tour ... or anywhere.

Indeed, Bruce has the choice.We love that. It’s the American Dream. Bruce did it his way. Surfing is about the surfer, not just his or her surfing ability. We love characters with talent. The Tour already is missing Bruce, and don’t be surprised if he’s got one more win in the bag. Oh, and not to worry, he’ll be surfing the Pipe Masters, Teahupoo and other perfect, hollow left-break contests for years to come.

Kelly Slater used up his last “throw away” (they get two this year) in the event Bruce won; it was his second 17th finish. Thing is ... all his other events are first place. His nearest rivals all went down fairly early as well, so he’s still more than 1,000 points ahead of No. 2 Joel Parkinson. Now, Kelly isn’t retiring as yet, but he’s more relaxed than he’s ever been. He has retired some sort of weight on his psyche, for “something special is happening.” The best-ever is besting himself, again. Neither he nor anyone ever started out with this winning streak. It’s like he’s playing on a new, rarified field. How does he stay in his essence (winning) so well and so long? I think he’s let go of all the other peripheral stuff and is living in a pure state. Something most mere humans can only admire from afar.

Next stop is No. 6 out of 11 at the Boost Mobile Pro at Trestles in SoCal Sept 7-13. Then it’s off to France Sept 19 and Spain Sept. 29. They then head down to Brazil Oct. 28 before coming here to the Rip Curl Pipeline Masters Dec. 8.

Third Wave: You may have only today to get in the Regal Dole Cannery Theaters to see Bustin’ Down the Door. Narrated by Academy Award nominee Edward Norton, this surf movie/documentary is about the Australian/South African/North Shore invasion - especially around the early to mid-1970s. The core crew were world champs Peter Townsend, Shawn Thompson, Rabbit Bartholomew, Mark Richards, Gotcha’s Michael Thompson and a few others.

These gutsy, talented men strove to become the first legitimate, full-time professional surfers with a world tour format. In order to do this, they knew they had to prove themselves in Hawaii. They were willing to risk it all for this goal. It’s a powerful story about the power of dreams, surfing and aloha. It’s also a story about conflict and culture, ego and pride and, in the end, forgiveness, humility and victory.

Even today there’s disagreement with how it all went down. But regardless, it’s a must-see movie. “A breakout film. Bustin’ Down the Door shows what happens when ego and historical problems clash during the most critical period in our sports history.” - Kelly Slater, eight-time world surfing champion.

See you back here next week with my interview with Da Hui He’e Nalu founder Eddie Rothman. He has a few things to say as well.

GQ ... dropping In 4 U!

 

Having a ball with wave energy

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers!

What a sweet last week of July. The Taz Sea delivered above the forecast and peaked at about 5 feet - yes, it did! But you had to be at the right spot at the right moment. The National Weather Service issued the high-surf advisory on Monday when 8-foot face observations rolled in.

Those SW swells are usually pretty fat with long lines - beautiful things. The periods of this last big one reached 20 seconds!

Any wave with more than about nine or 10 seconds is heading above wind swell, the least energetic type of wave when it’s small. We can get pretty serious surf at 16 seconds, so this last swell came from a whopper storm. The higher the winds and longer they blow one way, the bigger the wave heights and periods - two very different aspects.

It’s an over-simplification, but the longer the period, the bigger the waves. Picture two beach-balls sunk into the water side by side and rolling by. The bigger the beachballs, the longer it takes for their two tops to pass through the same point in space. Two beachballs of half the size would take 10 seconds to pass that same point. This also means that the big beachballs have more area underwater. So, they’ll feel the ocean bottom sooner than a small beachball and, therefore, “bounce” higher.

Now let’s switch to waves instead of balls. Wave height is the vertical distance between a wave’s top (crest) and bottom (trough). But wave period measures the size of the wave - through time! A wave period is measured by picking some stationary point and counting the seconds it takes for two consecutive crests (or troughs) to pass it.

Now for some reality. Beachballs don’t work in the real world of waves. You see, in deep water, a wave is simply forward motion of energy, not water! Indeed, water molecules don’t even travel with the wave. It will basically move up then down in the same spot as the “energy wave” moves by.

Try it. Place a ping pong or basketball on the surface of a non-breaking wave out at sea - remember, wind doesn’t count in this exercise. You’ll see them go up and down in about the same spot. Same deal with the actual water.

Back to the storm that created the 20 seconds. Fiji got slammed with over 15-footers from the same system. The two things that decreased the size for Hawaii were 1) distance traveled (4,000 miles) and 2) the “shadowing” effect (blockage by Fiji and other islands between us).

The interesting thing is that wave periods remain nearly constant over time and distance whereas wave heights drop about half every 1,000 miles (very rough estimate). This is why we can have 3- to 5-foot waves with 20 seconds while Fiji got 15-foot waves at the same 20 seconds.

As wave periods increase, so does the “amplification” of wave height once the bottom of the wave underwater “feels” the bottom of the ocean. The final effect is undeniable as the 20-second swell transforms into a thick breaking wave.

This weekend we have another SW swell, but nothing near this last one. At least August will be kicking off with something. Trades will be down a pinch, so the waves and weather should be real fine.

Last weekend was epic for competition. The girls of Hawaii are just going off the hook. I’ve got the story of Kauai’s history-making 14-year-old Malia Manuel at surfnewsnetwork.com. This adorable and talented ripper is the youngest girl ever to win the U.S. Open.

Also, guess who won the QS Edition Molokai to Oahu Paddle Board Race for the seventh straight time? He’s not from Hawaii. I wish some rich dude would pay our paddlers to go full time into training so we can catch this amazing man - Jamie Mitchell.

More on these athletes next week. I seem to have lost track of time on a wave.

GQ, Dropping in 4 U!

 

A stoked July, Slater rips, Joy goes long

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers! July has been doing its best to keep up with June’s record consistency. Now that the latest forecast is in, I must salute summer’s middle month. She’s doing just fine, thank you - month seven can take a bow! Right now (Friday), we’re in a declining near-advisory swell.

July’s last week will find us in the middle of yet another overhead Tazman Sea-generated swell. There’s also a southeaster coming in the last couple days. Shall I count the ways we love July? How about eight single swells?This is the stuff of record, I figure. I’ll double-check with the guy who actually does the “figuring” - Pat Caldwell (NOAA Data Center liaison and all-round great surfer, forecaster and friend).

Of course, now’s about the time to begin worrying about August. This is my B-day month (39 again) ... and if it “falls on its face,” I shall be very angry. I can accept far fewer swells in September, but not August! It’s our last great hope for a summer to beat all summers.

And, no, we cannot forecast a month out. We can guess, but last I checked, that’s not the definition of “forecast.” Better yet ... grab any and all old or new surf-boards you wish to sacrifice. Give them to me. We do know that this works ... somehow. Again, I’ll ask Pat.

A lot has happened since last week. We have a Billabong Pro champ win at Jeffries Bay. The infamous Honda U.S. Open kicked off at Huntington July 18. Locally, T&C Surf won the Quiksilver Surf Shop Challenge - a repeat! Last, but not least, we have a special talent who just broke a record for Hawaii Nei by becoming its first-ever women’s world longboard champ - Joy Monahan! At 22, that’s not a bad title to take home. Wow!

First, Kelly Slater won his fourth straight event on the WCT right out the gates - never been done. It’s his 38th career win. The 36-year-old veteran is so far out in front, folks are basically vying for No. 2 ... before the halfway mark! He’s further cemented his rep as the greatest surfer of all time - and one of the greatest sportsmen of all time.

Now the angry and hungry field is heading “somewhere” in Indonesia for the Ripcurl Pro Search. It starts July 30 and continues through Aug. 10. There are four unreal Australian talents in the No. 2-5 positions. The Americans better step up before Kelly calls it quits. Anyway, with six more events to go, don’t be surprised if K.S. wins here, too ...

Next, the U.S. Open is happening through July 27. It is about the biggest six-star WQS (World Qualifying Series) event around. It boasts some of the sports greatest pros to ever stand on a wave: Slater, Garcia, Irons, Machado, Burrow ... and the same with the women: Lisa Andersen, Layne Beachley and Sofia Mulanovich. In fact, since it started in 1994, 26 out of the 28 men’s and women’s world titles have been won by U.S. Open Champs ... crazy. Log on to USOPENOFSURFING.COM. Yes, Hawaii’s all over it.

Next, I’m not sure what T&C Surf is feeding its team riders, but I want some. Ala Moana Bowls cranked out some ... well, bowls, as this team competition between surf shops caught fire. T&C won last year, too, and will head up again to the Nationals Sept. 8, this time to take top honors for Hawaii’s no ka oi surf shops.

Next, Joy Monahan returned from France July 20 as Hawaii’s first-ever female world long-board champion. She won top honors July 16. Men have seen plenty titles with the likes of Rusty Keaulana, Bonga Perkins and Dino Miranda. But she stands alone - proud! I’ll shoot for an interview for us all.

Last, we have a ton of great SURFHAIKU submissions from our inaugural community contest. I had a feeling Hawaii was brimming with writing talent. Surfing is so inspirational. You should try it. Google HAIKU and send me some of your own at .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).

Mahalo for being here ... stoked!

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

 

June’s south swells continuing into July

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers! Wave one: The summer of 2008 continues to be one of the best in decades starting with June. July had one five-day lull, but not anymore. If it’s Aloha Friday as you read this, south swells are still pumping out the fun. There have been three pulses in one week from Down Under. When July 1 came, waves were already four feet ... so that’s four swells in just over two weeks! This Monday another one hits! If this pattern continues, July can boast a fantastic follow-up to June’s record-breaking consistency - sweet stuff.

Of course, you know what this means ... all the numerous events and competitions have been scoring off their face. The surf for the T&C Grom Search at Queens was BIG for these kids. But there they were ... going for it. The Macy’s Pro E Series went off in perfect Ala Moana Bowls - it showcased not only the spot, but Hawaii’s future touring pros. Even good, old, reliable Sandy Beach thumped for the body-surfing champs and spectators all weekend long. If this isn’t rock ‘n’ roll in paradise, I don’t know what is.

Wave two: They’re rock ‘n’ rolling on the world tour as well. The gang is waiting for the next swell to hit South Africa’s Jeffries Bay. As I write this just before round three (top 32 or 16 two-man heats), there’s unbelievable tension in the salty air.

In a nutshell: Many are waiting to see if Kelly Slater ties another world record with the ever-influential Tom Curren (World champ: 85, 86, 90). What record, you ask? How about winning four straight WCT events? Keep in mind that the grand majority of top touring pros seldom win even one contest per year.Win one and you had a very good season.

I love world records ... those moments when history is made or could be made; moments when athletes of Slater’s stature boggle the mind. Freaks of nature like Tiger Woods or Michael Jordan who summon forces deep within and seem to control the elements and fate itself - at the precise moment needed.

Well, surfing is at that moment. If Mr. Surf gets his way, that’ll pretty much wrap up the Fosters WCT Tour of 2008 ... before half time (there are 11 stops). This is or rather “would be,” at this point in time, simply an absurd accomplishment. Baring any unforeseen accident or tragedy, the chance of Kelly losing his ninth title run is nearly nil. For the “other guys” to beat him, one would have to win four events as well ... and I just gave you those odds. This is the stuff of legend - happening now.

Wave three: I have my first contest for you to enter. It’s a Surf Haiku submission. Recall that a haiku is a Japanese poem composed of three unrhymed lines of five, seven and five syllables. Today, haiku is a 17-syllable verse often reflecting on some aspect of nature. You don’t have to be strict about these parameters. The poem typically presents an intense emotion or vivid image of nature, which, traditionally, is designed to lead to a spiritual insight. The three lines focus on a single element. It is the shortest form of Japanese poetry. Now let’s apply it to our favorite pastime! Are you in? Come on now, when was the last time you sat down to write a poem ... especially about surfing? I bet there’s a ton of talent out there. Enlighten us. Oh, and yes, you could win something in this drawing. I’m going to talk with a few surf shops and get some sweet gift certificates to inspire you.

Here’s a few for you. I recommend you GOOGLE “Haiku Poems"and get in the mood. Send your “Surf

Haiku” to .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).

No. 1: Haiku softly sings and a word picture is formed. A feast for the mind.

No. 2: Clouds sit still above. Mountains stir a placid sea. Nature’s beauty glows.

No. 3: Birds take wing on high, gliding over angry waves back to their safe nests.

See you back here in MidWeek next week.

GQ ... Dropping in 4 U!

 

Another sweet summer south swell rolls in

Aloha, surfers!

This whole work week we’ve been in a lull ... till now! It felt weird not having much surf in town for five days. June spoiled us - it was one of the best months in a decade. Well, the wait is over, my friends. If you’re reading this late on Aloha Friday and prepping for your weekend, you’ll need a new bar of wax for this new Tasman Sea swell. It’s not as big as the last couple of ones, but, hey, I’ll take it.

This one is the start of another long run of South Shore energy as the storm moved east of New Zealand. This is the best clear shot up to Hawaii. Again, nothing overhead is expected, but it will last awhile. The “fetch” (area over which wind of nearly constant direction and speed has blown) lasted for more than three days - stoked! So maybe three bars of wax?

Last Friday, Fourth of July, had the biggest paddle board race Hawaii has ever seen. I heard that about 360 people joined in the 3.5-mile competition from Sunset Beach to Waimea Bay. Sure, the SUP (stand up paddle) craze is part of it, but still - what an event!

I heard from Franko of HawaiianSwell.com (see photo) that the bay was blanketed with paddle boards - even the beach was packed with bodies and boards. He also shared about a girl named Candice Applebee who not only won the women’s SUP but also placed 10th overall ... including men. That’s seriously impressive when you consider the names up there in that league.

Another spooky competitor is Australia’s Jamie Mitchell. He’s the world’s greatest paddler of all time. Jamie wins everything he enters. He did the thing in 29:27 - more than 2 minutes ahead of his closest world-class competitor, Brian Rocheleau. This may not sound like a long space of time, but consider the distance is only 3.5 miles. Take, for example Chas Beasley, a new outstanding paddler who won the Military Division in a super-fast 37:53.

This ranks tops in most categories. Yet Mitchell is about 8 minutes faster than fast! How does he do it? To look at him, one wouldn’t guess he’s so strong and powerful. He just knows how to paddle, period. The art of paddling includes reading the ocean, big time. Geez, this madman so dominates the sport I’m shocked he has yet to get the cover of Sports Illustrated.Why don’t we hear his name when sports fanatics talk about Woods, Armstrong, Jordon, Gretzky, Hawk and Slater? Oh, those last two are skate-boarding and surfing, for those who may not know. But you knew.

Anyways, if the Hui He’e Nalu Independence Day race gets much bigger, we may need a bigger ocean. See you in 2008 for more record attendance.

Speaking of records, how about local talent Kai Sallas? He won both the Pro Am Long Board and SUP divisions in the Steinlager Shaka Longboard Series event No. 3 on July 5 at Kewalos. He had to beat guys like world champ Bonga Perkins and Duane Desoto, no easy feat. The waves were 2-3 average, and all the surfers were ripping. Kai was simply on a roll. Knowing just when to fly over the lip or bash it, hang five or cut back. He owned the rights and lefts and picked great waves, too. If you want a lesson on winning, check him out at SURFNEWSNET-WORK.COM. I have a video clip loaded from YouTube in the upper left SNN slide show.

Last, but certainly not least ... Guess who not only wins on short boards but now on long boards? It’s the same youngster who holds the world record of nine NSSA Championships. The same person who’s beaten not one, but two world champs on the Women’s World Tour (Layne Beachley and Stephanie Gilmore). The same 15-year-old whose smile brightens everyone’s day? Carissa Moore ... but you knew that, right?

Ms. Moore won the Junior Women’s Amateur Longboarding in the same contest above on Sunday, July 6. She likes to mix it up and as always have some fun - while coming in first as often as possible!

And I love to write and tell you about it!

See you in the lineup and back here in MidWeek next week.

GQ, dropping In 4 U!

 

Sunset paddling on the Fourth of July

Aloha, surfers!

It’s sum, sum, summertime! We’ve had waves all week for both town and country. Our Taz Sea swells are great because they’re “fat” swells with long lines - and we had two in one week! The North Shore woke from its summer slumber for some head-high fun. Trades have been light and there’s been decent weather.

The forecast is for an overall down trend for town and country, until the next round of south swells near the end of the upcoming week. Log on to www.surfnewsnetwork.com for the latest and greatest trends on waves and weather.

On Friday, the 30th annual Da Hui Fourth of July Paddle Board race will see more than 200 people glide 3.5 miles from Sunset Beach to Waimea Bay, starting at 11 a.m. For the serious competitors, it’s an all-out sprint. There will be the stock 12-foot boards as well as the surfboard divisions (under 12 feet). Yes, there will be the ever-growing number of SUPs as well as traditional all-wood boards. The new group is the active-duty military for both men and women. They even have a tandem division.

Last, but not least, our keiki get in on the action for the second annual Waimea Bay Lifeguard Keiki Ocean Challenge - this occurs after the paddleboard race awards ceremony. It’s a great way for family and friends to stay in shape and celebrate Independence Day. See you there - in and out of the water.

The ASP World Tour has moved to South Africa for the fifth stop out of 11. The Billabong Pro at Jeffries Bay starts Thursday, July 10. J Bay is probably the overall best right-hander in the world. Google Earth the place and you’ll see the incredible lineup.A wall can extend out in front of you more than 100 yards, making you question whether you can make it ... you can! There’s lots of tail push with numerous barrel and carving sections for sometimes several football fields. The place and the event are legendary.

World ranked No. 8, Andy Irons is Billabong’s best hope for a win, as he’s won here before. But it’s Quiksilver’s Kelly Slater who’s really in position to win for an unreal fourth time! That’s a record ... of course. He leads the ratings by about as much as one man can.Why? Well, no top 44 pro has won any of the four events except Slater. The only contest he didn’t win was won by a wild card, Bruno Santos in Tahiti. His points don’t count for the Dream Tour dudes. They all are chanting “Stop Slater ... Stop Slater.“I think this mantra will only jinx the contest for them!

Last on the surf list this MidWeek ... I was surfing Kaisers and ran into Buttons Kaluhiokalani - not literally, luckily. The “Innovator of Modern-day Surfing” was in his element, drawing those beautiful sweeping lines just like he has for more than 30 years. In between waves and smiles, we talked about the lucrative business of surf schools (he has his own: www.buttonssurfschool.com). Sure, the subject of all the money to be made came up (some of these schools are making tens and tens of thousands each month). It’s very easy to see why so many have jumped on board in this revitalized industry. Surfing’s popularity and image have surged to an all-time high.Yet, very quickly you could tell Buttons’ first love is the joy of surfing and bringing that joy to others. It really isn’t about the almighty dollar for him.

Buttons enthusiastically told me about the time he taught a blind man named Mike to ride waves - alone. It was a step-by-step process: the paddle out, the positioning, the takeoff, the ride - and the whole time Buttons was patiently guiding and teaching Mike to feel his way. Because that’s how he learned - that’s how Buttons surfs. When the moment came, both he and Mike knew the moment had come: “Do you want to try one alone?” The brave blind man replied “Yes!” and off he went to shore - just him, the board, the wave and his huge heart. Can you just feel their stoke? Can you just imagine those two grinning? Neither will ever forget - and that’s priceless.

See you back here next week! I hope you get a priceless surf session in.

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

 

Getting ready for summer swells

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers, Here’s the last weekly surf installment for June.We’ve had two small-to-moderate south swells to keep things fun and rideable through the weekend.What a blast it’s been this spring season. That last run of surf went nearly three weeks - one of the longest in a decade.

Those I’ve talked to are worried that their hopes may get dashed come July and August. Why? Well, in summers past the waves were actually better in spring. Right about when the summer solstice arrived (around June 21) the surf went south, as in down. It’s just not supposed to do that, you know? But it has happened for several seasons. It was like Mother Nature pulling a fast one and rearranging the furniture.

So what’s it going to be this summer of 2008? Heck if I know! But, if I had to make a claim, I’d say it’s not going south - it’s going north, as in up! So stay waxed and ready. I can already tell you this for sure: There are two swells hitting for the first week of July. They’re coming up from between Australia and New Zealand, better known as the Taz Sea.

The problem here is that the Taz swells get “shadowed” or blocked by those South Pacific islands like Fiji (more than 300 islands). This takes a lot of spunk off that energy needed to travel up about 4,000 miles. Not that these storms aren’t huge.

Fiji will be over 15 feet by the time MidWeek hits your home. That’s warning levels of 25 feet crest to trough. If this same storm tracked off the east coast (vs. west) of New Zealand, where no shadowing occurs, we’d get over 6 foot local-scale waves.

But, alas, Hawaii will likely see 2 to 3 feet at top spots’ top sets. Google-Earth it or just look at a map to get your south surf geography down.

The forecast really can’t go beyond two weeks for those south swells. There’s one week of travel time plus one week of actual model output. So, let’s say the models point to a new storm in five days. You just add about five to seven days to that, depending on exactly where it spawns. Add ‘em up and mark your calendar. Or just go to SNNHAWAII.COM. Warn your boss that you have plans to be sick - or just tell them that morning “something came up.” And don’t blame me if they don’t think you’re funny.

Hey, I was just watching SNN team reporter Banzai Betty’s new show on OC16 last Monday night at 9:30 p.m. It was the debut of her latest venture in TV. The 30-minute show is called FLHI GIRLZ and it’s really good. The MC Kori Harvey has a ton of spunk and personality, and the show covers our incredible wahine ocean sports population. Of course, there’s surfing stuff, but there’s also paddling, canoe regattas, skate boarding - even motocross - environmental issues, education and more. It’s all about the girls and their smiles as they live our ocean life to the fullest. Keep an eye out as this one’s going to go off the hook!

The events schedule is nuts ... just finished up the HIC “All Military Surf Classic” June 21 at White Plains. They had fun waves and weather. Congrats to Dee Marques and Shawn Clamlee, our longboard champs; and Elijah Gates, winner of the open short boarders 12 and under. Also kudos to EJ Mitsui, Pat Buckley, Nike Estencion, Kawehi Whitford, Marciano Whitford, Johnnie Dodge and Herb Pruse for winning each of their respective divisions. See you next summer solstice.

The Steinlager Shaka Longboard Series 2 finished June 22, in ripable 2-foot waves at Queen’s Surf break. The sun and cloud mix just made the water pristine. And, of course, the performances were world class. Winning over the 32 pros was Waianae’s Kamu Auwae, who was rewarded with $1,200. Also, another name we hear lots recently especially in the SUP category is Ikaika Kalama; he took first in the last two minutes of the final. Kamu takes top overall honors with second place in the Stand Up - he’s a great overall waterman and competitor.

For complete results, hit it to SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM.

I’ll catch you catching waves and back here next week!

Mahalo to KazSano.com for the great shot of Kamu getting ready to hang five. Be sure to see his website.

Aloha, GQ ... Dropping In 4 U!

 

Island surfers dominate Indonesia, vintage boards

Aloha,  surfers and ocean enthusiasts!

How was that string of south swells? Our Father’s Day swell will be remembered for quite a few years to come. Now we may be in a bit of a lull ... but, there’s actually plenty fun still to be had. It’s the theory of surf relativity. The South Shore takes on a different look and feel when the surf is overhead. Now that there’s “only” waist-to-head high waves, we’re hungry for the “bigger” stuff. Now it’s too small, dude! You know how it is ... we humans can get spoiled rather quickly. I never thought surf was like cash before ... the more you get ... the more you use ... the more you want.

Hey, it’s International Surfing Day (ISD) on Aloha Friday (June 20). Not that we need more excuses to go surfing ... but I’ll take it ... how about you? ISD was established five years ago by the Surfrider Foundation and Surfing Magazine. It’s the one day a year where surfers from around the globe come together to celebrate the sport of surfing and to give back to our world’s oceans, waves and beaches. The tradition is to commemorate the day with various coastal clean-up and restoration events around the world. Now that’s what I call a good day of surfing. Log on to SURFINGTHEMAG.COM/ISD! Again, you don’t need to join a big group ... just go surf a few waves with a few friends and remember to pick up a few pieces of trash ... that’s all. You’ll be amazed how good that one simple act can make you feel.

Hawaii dominated the WQS recently. This grueling, pay-your-dues international series is for those pros aspiring to join the Dream World Tour. This is the place where guys like Andy Irons or Pancho Sullivan get to make a better living surfing better waves.

Hawaii’s Kekoa Bacalso just won the Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) Prime 6 star World Qualifying Series (WQS) Sri Lankan Airlines Pro. It was contested in perfect surf at Pasta Point in the Indian Ocean’s Maldives (Indonesia). For a long time, the Republic of Maldives was one of the world’s best-kept secrets, host to a beautiful string of low-lying coral islands. Well, you know what you get when you have reef and swell: Waves! ... the kind Hawaii’s locals love to tear apart.

Bacalso defeated Dustin Barca in the all-Hawaiian final while all their Hawaiian fellow competitors cheered them on. Barca opened the final with an excellent 8.17 point ride that included a clean tube ride followed by a series of excellent and precisely executed bottom-to-top turn combinations. Five Hawaiians out of eight surfers for the quarter finals is not a bad day representing the Aloha State.

Dustin exclaimed ...“So stoked to finally win at ASP Open level. After winning the ASP World Junior title a few years ago, the pressure’s been on me to perform at the open level, but it’s been really hard, the competition is so tough and to finally break through is such a relief. The waves have been amazing here and the Hawaiians have ripped every day - it’s a huge party for us here tonight.”

Last but not least on my weekly surf list is something a friend told me about. It’s called “Surf evolution ... 100 years of wood surf boards”. It’s all about the “pre-foam"era of our favorite toys. This art form has been going on for far longer than most realize or appreciate. This eight-week show will help you. Don’t miss this historical and cultural exhibit; it will feature a rare collection of more than three dozen classic, vintage, pre-foam surf boards from the 1800s up to the ‘50s. The place is 1132 Bishop St. and opening night is this Thursday (June 19). Come hang out with some of the legends of surf and the boards they once rode.

I’ll post more at SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM.

See you in the lineup and back here next week ... in MidWeek!

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

 

A wave of up-and-coming amateur surfers

Aloha, surfers!

How was that for a run of surf? There hasn’t been a contest in town in years that scored like the Burger King States last Wednesday through Friday.

And guess what? There’s more! We saw a little bump last Wednesday with a bigger bump Friday and an even bigger bump Dad’s Day into Tuesday! You know the drill - stay waxed and ready.

We have some champions in the birthplace of surfing. Here are just a few of our top amateur surfing talents over the past year for HSA (the Hawaii Surfing Association).

Short Board Surfing: Menehune: 1, Chaz Kinoshita; Boys: 1, Ha’a Aikau; Junior men: 1, Kylen Yamakawa; Men: 1, Davin Jaime; Masters: 1, Scott Shimoda; Senior men: 1, Todd Murashige; Grandmasters: 1, Kal Faurot; Open: 1, Christian Enns; Girls: 1, Nage Melamed; Women: 1, Nina Dodge.

Top Longboarders: Menehune: 1, Kaito Kino; Girls: 1, Erika Steiner; Junior men: 1, Joshua Lindstedt; Men: 1, La’akea Davis; Legends: 1, Koapaka Brown; Senior men: 1, Gino Bell. Grandmasters: 1, Tommy Reyes; Women: 1, Racheal Spear; Open: 1, La’akea Davis;

Stand-up Paddle: Open: 1, Miguel Graham.

Bodyboarding Winners:Men:1, James Clancy; Junior men: 1, Alex Brown; Boys: 1,Matthew Holzman; Dropknee: 1, Kapena La’a; Launch: 1, Alex Brown.

The entire field surfed one of the South Shore’s most challenging waves, especially when it gets 4 feet and up. Bowls is fat and fast, heavy and hollow. Not to compare, because it really doesn’t compare to Queen’s Surf - the most popular contest spot in the Islands. If these surfers can handle good-size Bowls,they can handle.So congratulations to everyone who entered the event. See you next year. I guarantee you that we’ll see some of the same names above - and some new ones too.

The China Long Board Classic for the women and children of Kapiolani Medical Center obviously was extra-blessed this year. The girls scored the same swell as the Burger King States, only this was at Queen’s Surf Break! Long rights roped down the reef the whole weekend. This effort raised money for a good cause and everyone had good fun doing it.Sounds like a perfect wave to me!

Then, not to be left out, was Kewalos ... yep, there was a contest there, too. This one was the “King of the Groms” held in fun 2- to 4-foot surf on Monday. The competitors get to nab some funds without turning pro. This money gets them up to California next week for the NSSA Championships. You see, the best single wave performance per heat wins 100 bucks - simple. There were about 60 16-year-olds and younger who ripped for cash. The guy who got some of the big bucks ($800) was from Kauai, Kaimana Jaquias. Kaimana also has a rich gene pool. His dad is pro surfer Kaipo Jaquias. Former winner of this male-dominated event was 15-year-old Carissa Moore, who took second place along with Ezekiel Lau. Both these surfers took home $400 each. Not a bad day at the office, eh?

I’m sure these youths are getting a taste of things to come.What better incentive? Having dinner at home with the family talking story of how much fun they all had surfing - and then it hits them: I made money for this, too? Oh, I’m definitely doing this for a living, thank you very much! WCT, watch out!

Mahalo to Kaz Sano for the great photo!

See you back here next week in MidWeek!

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

 

Southern surf, and Slater does it again

Howzit, surfers and beachgoers! Welcome to June and our great run of southern surf! We’ve had waves almost all week with plenty into the weekend and beyond! Summer’s here - you can feel it. It’s the moderate to fresh trades and bright sunny days ... it’s the consistent south swells ... it’s the Burger King State Surfing Championships ... and it’s graduations galore.Time to party in paradise!

Indeed, the forecast is sweet. Our high pressure is strong to the NE and doesn’t seem to be going away anytime soon. This means a stable atmosphere. Down Under (500 miles south) by New Zealand,we’ve had an amazing run of big storms pushing up waves for our playground and pleasure. In fact, these systems are so powerful,Chile is getting some spots up to near 20 feet. This is due to these storms tracking directly into the south coast of South America. Think of it as being similar to our big NW swells December through February. It’s their winter and they are sitting in the perfect spot.

It’s well-known that Hawaii is home to some of the world’s greatest surfing talent. Every one of these champs - Michael and Derek Ho, Sunny Garcia,Andy and Bruce Irons, Jamie O’Brien - all surfed as top amateurs at one time. So who’s it going to be from the Burger King State Surfing Champs? Head over to Magic Island and watch all the action Wednesday through Friday and make a claim. There are a whopping 27 divisions!

Also,this Saturday it’s Soljah presenting the first Primo Stand-Up Challenge from Hawaii Kai Boat Ramp to the Elk’s Club. It will benefit Malama Maunalua, a community-based initiative dedicated to creating a more culturally and ecologically healthy Maunalua region in Southeast Oahu. Good on Alika Winter for stepping up for stand-up surfing and our aina.

But wait, there’s more! The Steinlager Shaka Long Board series swats it at Flies surf spot in Kakaako. They’ll use both days.

All the above events in our frenetic surf town will be posted on SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM. Just click the SNN News Wire link.

Lastly, let’s get off our island and on to Tavarua Island in Fiji, 3,000 miles to the southwest. The Foster’s ASP World Tour just finished the Globe Fiji Pro on the tiny island. They scored great waves relative to 90 percent of the world’s surf spots, but I’d say after watching the whole thing online, waves were overall “average to good"for this break.The best in the biz rode 3- to 6-foot lefts the whole way with off-and-on windy side shore textures.

What wasn’t average was the surfing. The tour talent pool is so deep it is almost ridiculous. Like in most sports, our wave warrior athletes have had to evolve to levels unachievable a decade ago just to survive. For example, Australians like Joel Parkinson and Taj Burrow would likely have several titles between them surfing like they do today in the ‘90s. But it’s 2008 and neither has a title.

There’s just one exception, and this dude is truly exceptional. His name is Kelly Slater.You may have heard of him.He’s from Planet Surf - in fact; he owns it, and has for over a decade and a half. It’s a place no one else has ever seen or been. He rides in a rarified atmosphere.

Slater won - again - making this his third win of the season out of just four contests! There are seven more to go. But, for now, it is total domination. KS places himself far ahead (by 1,000 points) of the entire talent pool mentioned above. For the time being, it’s Kelly Slater rewriting history - again. The surf world according to Kelly points to nine world titles. But I don’t want to jinx fate.I’ll just watch in awe the greatest surfer and one of the greatest athletes of all time.

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

 

The kids are alright, Diamond Head goes B-I-G

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers! I’m writing this with deep gratitude on Memorial Day.All the TV and radio shows have been sharing why we live in such a great country ... because of the great sacrifices of our men and women in uniform. I looked outside and saw a perfect day in paradise, inside and out.

The Local Motion Surf Into Summer officially kicked off the summer of 2008 all the way through Memorial Day weekend. Most of it was held in 2-3-foot reeling lefts; all of it was held under sunny tradewind skies - and plenty local-style aloha.

Congratz to menehune champ Joshua Moniz, boys champ Ha’a Aikau and girls champ Kelia Moniz. Looks like these legendary names are passing on their talents to the next generation. For complete results log on at SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM.

In addition to surfing, the contest kick-off party at Gordon Biersch raised more than $5,000.00 for Access Surf! Tons of thanks to Heavy Water magazine, Monster Energy, Mobi PCS, Ocean Vodka, go! airlines and, of course, Local Motion. Access Surf has four main objectives: 1) Provide adaptive surfing and shoreline flotation/swimming for any person with a mental or physical challenge who has a desire to enter the water, 2) Provide paths on Hawaiian beaches making them more accessible for everyone to enter the ocean, 3) Advocate for the disabled in the pursuit of outdoor recreation and leisure opportunities in the beach environment, and 4) Develop equipment and education for the advancement of adaptive surfing.” Check out the website: ACCESSSURFHAWAII.ORG.

To Mark, Rich, Tommy, Kate and the Access Ohana: Mahalo for a truly awesome job. You’re a great bunch of people with huge hearts for giving back to others. Keep surfing!

The Foster’s World Tour should be finishing soon for the Globe Pro in Fiji. This fourth contest (out of 11) is the last event held in the tropical realm of left-hand barrels.Then the pros are off to the cold-but-perfect right-handers of South Africa’s Jeffries Bay. They get a decent break as it starts July 10 through August 10. So far, Slater, Irons, Parkinson, Fanning, Durbidge, Burrow… are all looking to support a top five placement.

Back at home, the forecast is looking good for town! There are back-to-back storms down by New Zealand. Look forward to the entire upcoming week to provide tons of head high surf. Due to the SSW angle, waves will be had from out west all the way to Sandy’s. Stoked!

Our rare 4-8-feet SE swell last week was much bigger than we originally thought. It came from a gnarly storm 4,500 miles away in the 140-degree band. This angle is right where the Big Island sits relative to Maui, Oahu and Kauai, thereby blocking them.

Or so we projected. However, there was enough width and power of the open ocean swells to wrap in especially by late last Wednesday into Thursday. Now, granted there were more 5-foot waves than 6-foot waves, and more 6-foot waves than 7s and 8s. But, the point is, it was BIG! I got reminded of and “rehumbled” by BIG Diamond Head. I seem to forget what becomes of this typically mushy beginner’s wave when it hits 6 feet!

Guys like Darrell Payapaya, the Prince of Diamond Head, actually went back home and busted out his 7-foot board. The place just gets so thick, it’s as if you’re no longer at DH, but somewhere on the North Shore. I kept my 6-foot-3 board, thinking I’d be… not great,but OK.Well,I should’ve borrowed Darrell’s board. It was busy, with lotsa long boards (no surprise). The “Cliff’’ break was dredging and dumping hard. There were lots of fat closed-out sections. I got cut from grazing the bottom. Getting to the surface from those mean hold downs was no easy task. Paddling under some of those beasts was a bit frightening. Scared of Diamond Head? Yep.But, I prefer to call it respect.

We won’t likely see a SE that size for years.

But we will see you back here next week ... right here in MidWeek!

GQ, dropping in 4 U! Mahalo to Kaz Sano(dotcom) for the great shot of Ha’a Aikau flying high into first place.

 

Surfing into summer at Da Bowls

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers! Here’s our Memorial Day weekend surf check. Much mahalos for being here!

We’ve had waves! We’ve got waves! A storm off the east coast of New Zealand last weekend pushed up some 2- to 3-foot SSW swells that last through the holiday weekend. Perfect timing for the 2008 Local Motion “Surf Into Summer” presented by Billabong and Von Zipper. It’s at Da Bowl, and competitors will paddle across the channel from Magic Island. It’s a great amphitheatre ... bring your camera or video along with your sunblock. Trades and sunshine will be added to the surf mix. Plus, the energy of humanity is going to be really high. Look up and say thanks.

Even the Local Motion event that kicks off summer likes a kickoff party. So what do you say? Shall we head to Gordon Biersch Saturday night? Yes, let’s go! The party will feature exciting entertainment including Kapena, Lost at Sea and the amazing DJ Eskae of Nocturnal Sound Krew. Also, there will be a sweet fashion show of Local Motion’s and Billabong’s new summer styles.

There’s an added benefit.As with every Heavywater event, Surf into Summer is a fundraiser for a local non-profit organization. Proceeds from the event will go to AccessSurf Hawaii, which helps people with disabilities. The AccessSurf crew provides surfing lessons and educational water recreation programs and, of course, helps with easy access to the beach and ocean. Surf into Summer will help AccessSurf in continuing to pursue its goal to become the leader in recreation and leisure opportunities in the beach environment for people with disabilities. To show your support, come on down and kick off the kickoff! Please log on at www.accessurfhawaii.org.

Starting off this Sunday, May 25, is event No. 4 for the best surfers on planet Earth. They get to surf one of the best waves on earth as well. It’s a spot called Tavarua in Fiji. For me and many others (including Kelly Slater) who’ve had the chance to catch it at its best will tell you ... it’s the best left they’ve ever ridden. There’s not an ounce of stress on that little island (you can walk around it in 20 minutes). The Fijians are what make the place, and I wanna go back so bad it hurts. The holding period for the Globe pro is through Friday June 6. Slater leads the rankings with a bunch of Aussies nibbling, no, biting at his heels. Like Joel Parkison(No. 2), Bede Durbidge(No. 3) and Mick Fanning (No. 5). They don’t want to see this Alien from America nab his ninth title. But neither does the guy currently in fourth place ... Andy Irons.

That’s what’s coming, but what about what’s been?

On May, 15 the Billabong Pro in Tahiti was won by a Brazilian named Bruno Santos. Thing is ... no one would have guessed it. But this guy tore the place up. Now, granted it wasn’t the breathtaking, death-defying thing in the mags ... with 10-foot gaping holes. But it did get solid 6 foot and spitting over the sharp, shallow reef, and the way Santos came all the way through as a wild card and beat the likes of past champ CJ Hobgood was unreal! And, oh yeah, Bruno’s the first Brazilian to win an ASP WCT event in five years! Our hats are off and he’s over the moon.

Macy’s E-Series just kicked off at Ma’ili Point May 15-18. What’s cool is that, though we were a little worried about getting waves out there after weeks of flatness, it came to life just in time! An out-of-season NW swell swept into the area for this one-star WQS (World Qualifying Series). This series is much needed for Hawaii’s aspiring pros who may not be able to afford traveling to get those needed points. There’s a ton of WQS events worldwide, and only those talents who acquire enough points get a shot at the big bucks and dream WCT (World Championship Tour). Congrats to TJ Barron for winning the field. For complete results, log on the www.surfnewsnetwork.com slideshow.

See you in the lineup and back here next week in MidWeek!

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

‘Eddie Wen’ Go’ and ripping Kewalos

Aloha surfers and beachgoers,

It was and is an unusual week for waves, winds and weather. The culprit was a storm/cold front; it was associated with a low pressure fairly close to the northeast earlier in the week. This pushed the high-pressure ridge down over the Islands, bidding aloha to our typical trades and skies. The good thing is that waves are created by such storms, and that’s just what happened. We see advisory NNW swells Thursday through Friday! Yep, I love it when Mother Nature throws a curve ball and we get to hit it out of the surf park. I’m going to call my business friends and tell them something “came up.”

Hey, something is coming up for all our readers who love a great story. It’s a familiar one written in a non-familiar way. You can even hear it this weekend at the Hawaii Book and Music Festival. The title is Eddie Wen’ Go: The Story of the Upside-Down Canoe. This inspirational youth’s book is written by my dear friend Marion Lyman-Mersereau. She was the first and only woman to head south on the Hokule’a back in 1978. It was the fateful, legendary voyage on which Hawaiian hero Eddie Aikau perished at sea; he chose to risk it all to save those hanging on the capsized canoe. It’s been three decades this past March and the story’s power keeps growing.

Melissa DeSica’s watercolor illustrations are incredible throughout the 64-page hardcover book. There’s even a read-along CD companion to Marion’s creative endeavor.

There’s a list of colorful characters - the wise grandmother whale and her curious grandson, a sassy young dolphin, a tough pidgin-speaking shark and a free-spirited ‘iwa (frigate bird) - who all share in the telling of the story. Marion incorporates a liberal use of Hawaiian words and phrases as each of the older animals takes its turn in relating its part in the tale. It’s all woven through the events these characters saw or the family lore handed down. It’s all about the “upside-down canoe” and the brave human who went for help.

The book was definitely inspired, as Marion was well aware: “I get to the point (while writing) where Eddie paddles away ... and I know that part of the story. Now I’m going OK, what happens next? And I swear the story wrote itself ... it didn’t go where I had planned ... the characters told me the story. It was like I wasn’t writing. I still look at the story and go, ‘where did that come from?’

“I did know I wanted it to have an uplifting ending with resolution. I remember sharing the story with children and one kid said, ‘I think he’s (Eddie’s character) on an island nobody’s found yet.’ I liked that.” Me, too, Marion, and congratulations!

It’s a story for children of all ages, with lessons for all.

Hear the author read from Eddie Wen’ Go at the Hawaii Book and Music Festival May 18 at 12:30 p.m. in the Keiki Tent. You’ll have a chance to purchase from a limited supply of advance copies exclusively at the Watermark Publishing tent. (Marion will sign autographs from 1 to 2 p.m.) This book will appear in bookstores in June 2008.

If you’re reading this on Friday, the WCT Boys on the Foster Dream Tour will be done with more than a few rounds in Tahiti’s infamous Teahupoo left hander. It’s been a slow start to the 11-day waiting period. But the world’s best are always amazing to watch in any type of surf. They must finish by Sunday.

Congratulations to the top competitors ripping Kewalos last weekend in the last HASA event of the season. Now they’re all practicing for the Burger King States at Bowls this June 4-6. Those days fall on Wednesday through Friday. Go to SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM for all events.

See you in the delicious lineup and back here next week in MidWeek!

GQ, Dropping in 4 U!

 

Surf brats and beautiful people

Aloha Surfers, Wave No. 1 ... The past several weeks I’ve been bragging about all the great surf on all shorelines. It’s been off the hook.Already with two 6-foot south swells before May! The North Shore rocked us with a couple 5- to 8-foot north swells simultaneously. Well, no more ... not this week or the next or the next. Things have more than tapered off as swell engines (storms) have mellowed or totally shut down. We are below spring averages.

Hey, that’s OK, because this is what stops us from becoming completely spoiled surf brats. These are the “OK” days that create gratitude for the “great” days. And there’s still rideable surf to go around. In fact, this week sees 2-foot energy pulsing from the south and late this weekend from the NW. All waist-high, low-probability forecasts. So please - help me out here - I’m that spoiled surf brat and trying to adapt. It’s all about positive thinking ... or lowering expectations. “Oh boy, at least there are 2-footers! Yipeeeee! Oh, hey, and what about them choppy 1- to 3-foot tradewind swells? It’s time to get the fins out - do a little sponge bobbing!“Seriously, I love it ... 20 barrels an hour.

Wave No. 2 ... The WCT boys aren’t doing much better wave-size-wise. The Billabong Pro at Teahupoo, Tahiti, is likely to have a slow start to its 10-day holding period, May 8-18. The women bypass this treacherous break and go off in Brazil July 15. The men have 11 stops, the women have eight. They’re always praying for surf, too. You want to talk about spoiled? Then talk about the “Dream Tour"our world pros live. Check it out at WWW.ASPWORLDTOUR.COM.

Wave No. 3 ... Our surf community is making up for the lack of surf with BIG waves of service. One event is happening at Queen’s Surf in Waikiki this weekend. It’s the second annual Freedom Surf Contest from Surfing the Nations. Its goal is to promote awareness for a Drug Free Hawaii. There will be live music, giveaways, food and fun in the sun. Oh, and pray for surf.

The next goodwill surf event is at Pyramid Rock (Ku’au) at Kaneohe Marine Corps Base. It’s title: the “Safety and Rescue Specialists Surf Session.” This one has a holding period of two weekends: May 10-11 or May 17-18, surf permitting. It’s purpose is awesome and best described by the guy doing it - Jeff Barbieto: “To promote camaraderie amongst the different organizations that normally get together for professional and often highly stressful situations. The goal for this contest is to encourage us to come together for a positive and fun event for Ohana to enjoy.” Jeff is a firefighter and lifeguard as well as community-minded wave rider. Good on you, brother!

Next person to make a difference is a lady named Marlu West, who’s lived at Chun’s Reef for 30 years! Her love for the place shows by her actions. She helps big time with Adopt-A-Beach Hawaii, and now you can help, too. This Saturday at 10 a.m., please join Marlu and the Moanalua High School’s junior class as they clean the beach! It doesn’t take long at all.You’ll have all the supplies you need, including bottled water and some food. Large signs will be posted. The spots are Turtle Beach and Chun’s Reef. I want to send out special recognition to the students. There are other things each of you could be doing, but you’ve chosen to come out and do your part to give back to the aina! Mahalo! Drop into www.adoptabeachhawaii.com/Dates.htm

Lastly, The Surfrider Foundation Invites You To Keep It Blue!!! This Sunday, May 11, from 3 to 5 p.m. Diamond Head Beach! SURF/Paddle for CLEAN WATER! Go to www.surfrider.org/oahu.

How’s that for some beautiful people doing beautiful things for our beautiful Hawaii? Stoked!

See you back here next week in MidWeek.

GQ, Dropping in 4 U!

 

May rolls in with big waves and good causes

Welcome to the month of May, surfers,

Wave No. 1 ... Can you believe it - May?! One thing for sure, we can believe in the surf. It’s been going off the hook this week from the SSW. So far there have been two very strong swells to pound town ... and it’s very early yet in the season. If it goes on like this (and there’s no way to know), spring/summer seasons will go down as memorable. Now add wind waves and a couple swells for country into the mix and ... we’re stoked!

Wave No. 2 ... Food for waves of thought ... did you know the two storms way Down Under that pushed up above advisory south swells were jainormous? They pumped up over 35-foot seas in the open ocean with some hurricane-force winds over 55 kts. What would have happened if the North Pacific were to get such behemoths? Well, the general answer is “Way too big for you and me!” The outer reefs would be 30 feet, and all the big wave riding events “would go” ... like Eddie. Jaws would’ve bitten down on Maui and its minions. All the mags would have enough heavy heroics to last the quarter.

The reason why South shores only got 4- to 6-foot average and not 20-30 feet is simple - space and time. Those South Pacific storms are about 4,500 miles away in space, or a week in time. Those giant swells lose about half their size every 1,000 miles. It’s called “wave decay,” and the math is far more complicated. But you get the idea. These are BIG storms that bring in the summer swells. If they were much closer, 99.9 percent of all wave riders would head for the hills and watch.

Wave No. 3 ... Coming up next weekend in Waikiki is a very special surf event - the second annual Freedom Surf Contest. Its theme isn’t about winning heats or the latest tricks on a wave ... it’s surfers giving back. The vision comes from Surfing the Nations (a Christian surf ministry that travels the globe). We all know what drugs have, can and will do to our youths and society. The purpose of this event at Queen’s is to surf for a drug-free Hawaii all Mother’s Day weekend! How appropriate ... when you think of Mom, you think of compassion and doing what’s right. So let us join in with our support of freedom from the chains of addiction. Let’s celebrate the healthy lifestyle that is surfing. See you there with your friends and family. Log on at www.surfersgivingback.com and I’ll post photos on surfnewsnetwork.com as well.

Wave No. 4 ... Did you hear about Pipemaster Jamie O’Brien? He just won the trials round for the Billabong Pro in Tahiti starting May 8! They only let the top two get into this third World Championship Tour (WCT) event. O’Brien was the standout and on his game the whole time - he even towed into the infamous death-defying Chopo (Teahupoo) reef at 10-15 feet. This is the heaviest spot on the dream tour along with Pipeline. There were injuries, even for masters like O’Brien. Jamie O. is not on WCT tour by choice; he opts to use his unique status as a top-notch tube and trick specialist. He simply surfs around the world, blowing minds with his creative, skilled and gutsy approach to waves. He gets paid well for surfing well, period.

O’Brien also has a brash approach with his words ... they reveal his confidence and toughness. The superstar had this to say about the upcoming contest: “I knew the swell was going to be bombing when I came down here and the wind looked insane, so the whole event was super special,” he said. “One of the things I have always wanted to win was a Teahupoo trials, and I put that on my list a few years ago. I have nailed that, and now I have a chance to be in the main event and have fun. I’m not worried about it (main event). Barrel riding is what I do; I travel the world so I can go and surf barrels.

“I’m down for the main event; I’ll take them down.” (billabongpro.com) Jamie also does his talking with walking ... on water. So, he may just win it all. I’m going to claim that he will make the finals. Hold me to it so I can say I told you so.

See you in the luscious lineup and back here next week. I’ll have more with Marion Lyman-Mersereau and her new book, Eddie Wen Go - the Story of the Upside Down Canoe, coming out this month.

GQ, Dropping in 4 U!

 

The passing of surfing icon Woody Brown

Howzit, surfers?

Actually, I know how you are ... stoked! That south swell hit over 6 feet last week Friday.That one may turn out to be one of the biggest all season. Who knows? On the same day, country spiked up and hit over 6 feet. There’s more of the same as MidWeek hits mailboxes. Paradise was and is brimming with surf, sun and smiles.

Indeed, we’re just kicking in with the next round of good times for both town and country. The North Shore will top the list with waves near double overhead from the “North"angle vs.“West-Northwest.” If you’re looking out to sea, the sweep will come from your right. Spots like Laniakea love this type of swell and will max out the wave heights and crowds. Now, add in those ever-popular sleeping turtles and you have a zoo. I’m shocked no one’s been run over crossing Kamehameha Highway. But that’s another story.

Also, another good-sized south swell is on its way and will be filling in this Monday and lasting for several days. Now, it’s not as big as the last one, but it will be near advisory levels of 8 feet in the face. Check surfnewsnetwork.com for the latest model output.

The main human story for us wave warriors is Woody Brown’s passing last Wednesday (April 16) on Maui. Many youths have yet to hear much about this pioneer,pilot, sailor, inventor and big-wave rider. But, hey, at 96 years of age, that’s understandable. Woody was a classic, period ... one of surfing’s first great icons. He had more stories to share than there are bodies on Waikiki Beach. He always had this gleam in his eyes, a smile on his face and a visceral enthusiasm for life.Woody lived a full one.And with his “spider” frame, he rode waves all the way to 90 with a hoot and holler.

There’s far too much to say and too little space here. However, a “short list"is essential.Woody built the first-ever modern-day catamaran. He was creative, yet meticulous. He shaped boards, too. Woody would turn others on to the joy of being moved by a wave off Waikiki. He hung out and surfed with Duke Kahanamoku and friends during that classic period. Woody also was among the first to charge big Makaha back in the early ‘50s. See the photo taken by Thomas “Scoop” Tsuzuki: It got worldwide exposure and is credited for the first inspirational migration of California surfers to Hawaii.Woody was the only surfer to “make the wave.” Yes,Woody was a skilled,rush-seeking daredevil. “He was one of the first five or six people on the planet to surf Hawaii’s big waves,“said David Brown (no relation), who produced a documentary on Woody’s life.In the 2006 documentary (Of Wind and Waves),Woody Brown talked about surfing Oahu’s North Shore: “I always wanted to challenge death. I loved to get just as close to death as I possibly could and then dodge it. That was my thrill in life.”(Honolulu Star-Bulletin)

This is an understatement when you hear the epic story of Woody and Dickie Cross paddling out on a rising, warning-level NW swell back in 1943! This was decades before forecasting, and let me tell you, they didn’t know what they were in for or they’d have stayed on the beach. Woody luckily lived to tell one of the most hair-raising surf stories of all time. Sadly, Dickie was never found.Woody last heard that Dickie tried to body surf a giant wave at Waimea Bay (after losing his board) in a desperate attempt to save his own life. Dickie Cross was just a teenager.

Surfer Joe Teipel and I interviewed Woody on Maui in the late ‘80s while producing a pilot surf show (before there were surf shows). We had such a blast. As soon as I “digitize"the “tape,“I will put it up on the SNN website for all to see just how precious Woody was. Personality and pizazz are just a few words that spring forth.

Aloha,Woody,and thank you for your inspirational life.

Woody Brown is survived by his wife, Macrene Brown; three sons, Woody Brown Jr., William Parker Brown and Jeffrey Sellon; two daughters, Mary Sue Gannon and Jennifer Snyder; 10 grandchildren and 19 great-grandchildren. A wake will be held from 6 to 9 p.m. Friday at Ballard Family Mortuary, with a service at 7:30 p.m.The family requests casual attire. (www.mauinews.com)

See you back here for more on Woody next week in MidWeek.

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

 

Big South swells; an Eddie Aikau connection

Aloha, surfers, OK, we’re now past the middle of April and what do you know? We’re seeing what may be the biggest South of the season. Earlier in the week, Laniakea had some NNE sets up to triple overhead.Last Monday,Makapu’u had a few crazy, angry sets up to that size far outside. My conclusion: Hawaii is the rock that rocks the surfer’s world. Take your pick - North, South, East or West - there’s always something to ride ... year round. Stoked!

Last week I wrote how I’d tell a story of destiny and how my beautiful 16-year-daughter Chelsea Megumi Kamalani’s life is connected to the legendary Eddie Aikau. For those of you who may not realize, it was 30 years ago March 17 that this amazing human being,lifeguard and surfer chose to give his life for his Hokule’a ohana. They were on their 2,500-mile, 30-day journey to Tahiti for the Polynesian Voyaging Society in the double-hulled canoe called the Hokule’a. Six hours in, a leak in one of the hulls caused the double-hulled canoe to huli (turn over) in a storm. Stranded at sea, out of flight patterns and drifting further into danger, Eddie went for help toward Lanai on the only big, white tanker board with a makeshift leg rope. Neither Eddie nor the board were ever seen again.An eternal hero was born, and the rest is history.

On that fateful voyage was one female - Marion Lyman-Mersereau. She’s a published author (with a new book out next month) and has been a Punahou coach/teacher for 25 years. Before this she was doing plenty as well. Marion was program director of outdoor education at the “one and only” Camp Mokuleia on the North Shore out toward Kaena Point.I was going to San Diego State (like my mother - it’s my home-town and alma mater). I was a Camp Mokuleia senior camp counselor for its summer programs in the late ‘70s. I learned the ropes from Marion, always the consummate, passionate teacher. The people and the place created a lifetime of memories ... and something much more, yet unknown to me at the time.

Marion was not taken aback by that life-threatening night and day back in March of ‘78. Quite the contrary, she was obsessed with that canoe ... and that voyage. Courage and something more (her Hawaiian bloodline) urged her on.Marion would go ... again.This time it was in 1980 with Nainoa Thompson at the helm of the Hokule’a.

Marion would hire me to take her place. I would move permanently to Camp Mokuleia as program director. I lived in a cottage called Paradise, on the water with the Waimea Bay Steeple in view - the same place Eddie saved countless lives and rode countless waves. I’d stand on the beach in awe and dream of days out there.

I ended up at the camp for one year. Marion returned. Then our lives went on.I would go on to grad school, teach at Waialua High for a stint and play guitar at clubs around town and country. I eventually got into Surf News Network. Surfing was mandatory, of course, and I would always surf the bay when it broke.My destiny was being shaped. I was falling in love with Hawaii.

Eventually, we both married and had kids of our own. Marion and Art would have two great sons, Kaiwi and Kaniela, while Rene and I would have one amazing daughter, Chelsea.

As time flew by like a tradewind gust at advisory levels,I saw the connection clearly. I was having dinner with Chelsea and sharing Eddie’s story. Out of my mouth came words that surprised even me.

“If Eddie Aikau had not given his life for others, you would never have been born.“My daughter and I linked to that fateful trip.

If Marion had chosen not to go on the southern sojourn again, I would not have moved to the North Shore to take her place teaching outdoor ed.I would very likely not have met Chelsea’s mother years later. I may not even have stayed. Who knows?

What I do know is that courage and love for something greater than ourselves transforms lives. Eddie and Marion are two who unknowingly transformed mine.

Be here next week for my interview with Marion. I’ll post excerpts from her latest book at SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM ... stayed tuned.

See you out in the transforming lineup and back here where you belong next week!

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

The swells just keep coming - everywhere!

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers! How’s that for early spring surf flings? We’ve had waves to romance in town, country and out east at spots like Makapuu. South shores are getting ready to light the candle from the middle of April all the way past April 20. Love is in the air!

The last huge swell was Valentine’s Day, but the big fun didn’t stop there. March 12 had 15-foot sets. Then last Saturday afternoon we had nearly 10-foot bombs hit at Sunset Beach. There haven’t been waves that big in about three weeks.

The Steinlager-Shaka Long Board Series kicked off its first of five events on that same day. Almost 100 surfers showed up to test themselves against the elements and each other. Now, how’s that for great timing? Stoked!

I was working on my SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM surf cams at Sunset Beach and watched from the far right side of the break. This view reveals how thick and shallow some sections can be. It was heavy. This was board- and back-breaking Sunset power. I couldn’t keep my eyes off the sets. Heaving lips jacked over the reef and exploded. Now add in the SUP (stand up paddle) division and you’re really glued to the surf. It’s truly a sight to behold, these “stickmen” paddling around the lineup on their feet! Plus, this was serious competition in cold, shifty, stormy 6- to 8-plus-foot Sunset. The SUP would sometimes be taking off right under the pitch zone ... late! To get that huge board around and moving in the right direction with the wave takes power and guts. Positioning takes incredible skill. Seeing the “take-offs"you’d think,“oh my God, he’s going to get launched or beheaded.“But their judgment most often prevailed as the surfer would stroke for his life and beat the monstrous lip out into the wave face. More than a few boards were torn in two. Luckily, no bodies were.

There are some names you hear lots of lately in this old-new style of wave riding ... one is Waianae’s Kamu Auwae, winner of the SUP division. Kamu even nabbed a second in the Pro Am finals. Winning that last one was a guy most know could have won the SUP - he’s another Hawaiian talent named Ikaika Kalama. Obviously, this Big Islander is well-rounded on those big boards and waves. Oh, by the way, Ikaika charges the outer reefs, towing in with the best on planet Earth. His partner is none other than Garrett “G-Mac” McNamara - a multiple winner of big wave contests and awards recipient for his “no fear” approach around the globe.

The amateur division was finished on Sunday ... a few names in the winners’ circle were Jackson Hollingworth (Menehunes), Nelson Ahina (Juniors), Keoni Duey (Mens) Calen Barcena (Masters), Kelvin Pascua (Senior Mens), Michael Lorne(Grand-masters), Soyu Kawamoto (Senior Grandmasters), Megan Gordinez (Girls), Leah Dawson (Womens), Betty Depolito (Women Masters). For complete results of this contest and others, log on to SNNHAWAII.com. Next “Shaka” stop is town May 31.

OK, that’ll do it for this week in the surf department. Be here next week when I share a story about destiny and how my daughter Chelsea’s life is connected to Eddie Aikau. I’ll also have an interview with Punahau teacher and published writer Marion Lyman-Mersereau - the woman who was on that fateful voyage in 1978.

GQ, Dropping in 4 U!

Big-wave riding bucks; Slater does it again

Howzit, surfers!

We keep riding high this week ... with tons of fun in the sun and surf! There were a couple small to moderate swells for both town and country ... plus, trade swells have proved consistently 3 feet. Now a near advisory NW swell is coming this first weekend of April. Advisory size becomes highly prized later in the spring. We all know they’re too rare and will all too soon disappear into summer. So stay waxed and ready.

Indeed, the signs of fewer, smaller NW swells also signal the postponement of our big wave riding competitions. The Bank of Hawaii/Atlas Sales North Shore Tow-In Championships never found its one day. Neither did the Quiksilver/Eddie Aikau Big Wave invite at Waimea Bay. The “Eddie” holding period runs December through the end of February, while the “BankOH” waits through March 31. It’s not that easy to get that one huge and perfect day. Big wave legend and forecaster George Downing is not really watching for 12-18 occasional 20-footers at Waimea ... he’s waiting for a full day of 15- to 25-foot (40-foot faces). Same for the N.S. Tow In, though they will take smaller if need be; they took 8-12 feet at Puena Point in 2007.

Valentine’s Day had the best potential for the NS Tow-In with a few 20-foot sets, but the field of big wave riders and judges were spread too thin with the first annual Quiksilver Edition-Ku Ikaika (stand strong) challenge. The Stand Up paddle boarders went off in 8- to 12-foot Makaha. So, now we wait for next season ... but only here in Hawaii; the rest of the planet is a different story.

Big-wave riding has come into its own the past decade or so with more hell men dropping in world wide than ever before. There’s also more money in it. In fact, the eighth Annual Global Big Wave Awards are coming up Friday, April 11, in Anaheim, Calif. It’s an international field and it’s big marketing bucks for Billabong ... but they know why and how. Who isn’t impressed with those who challenge Mother Nature in all her massive glory? This surf company invests much cash into the athletes and I believe it’s paying off. Companies must have core credibility to gain loyalty and access to surfers’ pocketbooks. The thing that’s so smart is the knowledge of how big-wave riding deeply affects all people ... from the full spectrum of the extreme action sports niche to the couch potatoes. In fact, you don’t even have to know how to swim to get your heart pounding watching men who ride mountains.

As for the “relatively"small wave competitions, let’s finish with the Fosters World Tour. If you read my column last week, I was writing about Kelly Slater vs. the new breed and the deepest talent pool in ASP history. How he wasn’t sure if he’d even show up at Bells Beach for the Rip Curl Pro. Well, guess what? He won the thing (3/27) and rang the infamous bell for the third time. He barely beat out the latest title threat from Australia, Bede Durbidge. Slater now won the first two out of 11 events which puts him in good position to win his ninth title. I’ve heard rumors that Quiksilver is offering him $10 million if he ever gets 10 titles. Well, how about $9 million for nine? The dude’s worth 10 times that, in my opinion. He’s by far the biggest draw at every event he enters. It’s been this way for well over a decade.

Now they’re taking a break before heading off to Tahiti May 8, then Fiji May 24 .The South Pacific leg of the WCT is where Slater shines even more brightly. He’s won every contest (and more than once) down there. Instead of going right, like they do in Australia, they go left in the warm perfect barrels of the South Pacific. But whether it’s front side or back side, left or right, up or down ... I can’t wait.You have the 2008 schedule at SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM ... just hit the calendar link. There also are all the local events and box jellyfish dates.

See you in the lineup and back here next week!

GQ, Dropping In 4 U!

 

Kelly Slater still ringing Bells in Australia

Howzit, surfers!

As we near the end of March, we see our wave-swept shorelines reflect the arrival of spring. Surf is up in town and down in country, relatively speaking. Though don’t write off the North Shore just yet ... we still have plenty time to keep it going. The difference is how big - most of the swells now will be well below the advisory level of triple overhead or 15-foot faces (the typical size with winter storms).We also have tons o’ sun and trades in the forecast for the long haul ... God bless Hawaii.

By the time you get your hands and eyes on this issue we will have completed event No. 2 on the Fosters ASP World Tour at Bells Beach, Australia. They’ve been annihilating the right-handers in the Rip Curl Pro. The competition is so exciting this year. The new breed is threatening to bust down the door while the “other” breed still has plenty steel fortification ... especially built for those young intruders.You see, the veterans love the energy and challenge of the new school. They just bring out the best in everyone. For example, Kelly Slater is always searching for new reasons to compete and win. I mean, his motives have to come from higher places to which most of us can’t aspire or relate. So I have a feeling the “kids"are a fresh incentive - or meat, so to speak - for Slater to prove he’s still the greatest after all these years.

Also, it’s really exciting to have Slater at Bells as no one knew for sure if he was going to show up. He seems adept at keeping us guessing. Some think it’s a media ploy, but as far as I’m concerned, with eight world titles Kelly can do whatever he wants, however wants. And it’s not about him needing media attention - trust me on this one.

The world’s best female surfers finished their Rip Curl Pro event (also at Bells) Monday, March 24 (Sunday, March 23, in Hawaiian time scale). There’s someone very special on the tour these days ... she’s new and quickly amassing a potential “legend"status - in just year two on the WCT! She’s already a legendary athlete from where she hails: New South Wales (NSW), Australia. She’s already a record breaker worldwide - the first ever to win the world champ title in her rookie year. Now she’s gone and won Australia’s most prestigious surfing event: The Ripcurl Pro,for the second consecutive year! Meet 20-year-old Stephanie Gilmore ... sweet (and talented) as can be. There was a time when you could easily tell the difference between guys and girls surfing ... but the lines are getting blurred now. Stephanie is leading the new pack.

Back home in the Islands we had some of our very own future surf stars ripping up Kewalo waves last week. Though the surf wasn’t top quality, the performances were. It was three days of 1- to 2-plus average for the 120-plus competitors. This spring break, the National Scholastic Surfing Association (NSSA) Hawaii Regional Championships was sponsored again by RVCA (surf and skate wear).Surfers vied for a coveted spot in the U.S. Championships coming up in June at Trestles in sunny SoCal. Who are some of the names going up? Two of them are no surprise to anyone: Lahaina’s Granger Larsen and Waianae’s Alessa Quizon ... each winning top honors. For the entire listing of results from our great student surfers,log on at SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM and click the SNN NewsWire link.

What is especially cool about this year is how our local pros participated. Guys like Flynn Novak, Kekoa Cazimero, Rory Parker, Mikala Jones, Jason Shibata, Titus Kinimaka, Dustin Barca, Mikey Bruneau, Makuakai Rothman and Fred Patacchia ... just their presence is a huge inspiration for our aspiring youth. But these guys even helped out with the funding for travel and entry fees! See, Hawaii has much more than beautiful weather ... God bless Hawaii!

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

 

NSSA Regionals, HASA and the Ripcurl Pro

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers!

The perfect pattern I described last week is pau for now.It was truly a legendary run of perfection.You see, the jet stream - our “steerer of storms” - has broken to pieces. It’s going to break our tender, spoiled hearts in the process. The jet doesn’t look anything like it had for the last month. It was a large consolidated flow of upper air currents from Japan to east of Hawaii and just about 1,000 miles north. This kept a progression of storms moving nearby,pushing out tons of surf.Now the wave machine has shut down. There’s a large “blocking"high pressure sitting up there.With the exception of a couple northbound dips under the gulf for north swells, there’s no more WNW on the charts next week or beyond. I hope you caught some of that last swell.Yes, nothing good lasts forever ... heck, nothing lasts forever.I’ll just try to ride it out with as much grace, skill and courage as I can muster ... after I sit on the pity pot.

The good news is the south swell machine has kicked up a notch - BAM! There’s a round robin of a half-dozen small to moderate 2- to 3-foot swells.What great timing for the National Scholastic Surfing Association (NSSA) regionals! More than 150 of Hawaii’s best recently converged on Kewalos to see who’s going to Trestles in June for the U.S. championships! The best, the brightest and most ambitious youth practicing for a pro surfing career ... or anything they set their minds to. Very cool. The results will be posted here and at SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM.

Also happening simultaneously was the Hawaii Amateur Surfing Association (HASA) event No. 8 at “Flies”(Kakaako Beach Park) last Saturday. Let me interject that our rippers were very lucky to have any surf at all this time of year. Though waves were struggling for any 3-footers, our best amateurs showed why they compete - because they can. The competitive season is winding down ... or should I say up to the Burger King State Surfing Championships June 12-15 at Ala Moana Bowls. Before that,we gotta run at Sandy’s for No. 9, and at Kewalos for No. 10. Then it’s the whopper of all HASA surfing events. Here’s the new HASA hotline: 262-2488 ... perfect for any last-minute adjustments. Log onto HASASURF.ORG. I also have the schedule posted on the SNN calendar. Thanks to Burger King for all its support. Mahalo to HASA president Wendall Aoki and his tireless crew for always being there for our kids. HASA’s goal is promoting the sport and focusing the abundant energy of Hawaii’s surfing youth.

Last but not least ... we have a world-class event happening right now that plays into the dreams of many of our serious local surfers described above. It’s what they fantasize about - being a world touring pro! The Ripcurl Pro in Victoria, Australia, is contest No. 2 out of 11 on the men’s 2008 Fosters World Championship Tour (WCT). Our women have eight total events from which to crown their champ. This Bells contest is the longest-running pro event in surfing history (late ‘60s), and it’s the only contest where the winners get to “ring the bell.“It’s what some tout as the holy grail of pro surfing (gotta love those promo dudes). It does have a great amphitheater from the cliffs. Plus, when the wave is on, it’s a long right-hander suited for extreme ripping and roping. The defending champ is Aussie Taj Burrow. The names of past champs tell you something vital - that who rings the bell can likely be the world champ: Slater, Irons, Fanning, Garcia, Occhilupo, Hardman, Lynch, Curren, Potter, Carroll, Richards. These core guys have 27 years of world titles among them! The ASP began 32 years ago in 1976. That’s about 85 percent of all titles.What is it about that darn Bell? Oh, by the way ... Torquay is the birthplace of Ripcurl and Quiksilver! Watch it live at RIPCURL.COM and see who’ll be on their way to being the 2008 champ!

GQ, dropping In 4 U!

 

Aloha to North Shore’s Bob Kaleikau

Aloha, surfers!

The marathon continues with Wednesday’s swell pushing in some advisory waves (15 feet crest to trough) for the North Shore. There are more below-advisory NW swells coming Sunday and Monday. We also see a shift in the South Pacific ... there’s a round robin of storms pushing up small to moderate south swells every few days for us waiting one week - or 5,000 miles - away.

So, as spring nears, town will rise and country will fall ... in relative terms.You see,the North Shore will still be much bigger overall, even though country is cooling down and town is heating up. The standards are literally and figuratively higher for the North Shore. This is why the high-surf advisory criteria for country is three times overhead (15-foot face) and town is just 3 feet overhead (8-foot face) - nearly half the size! This is also why everyone goes ballistic when town is “happening"at 4 feet and country is “not happening"at the same size.

One thing is not relative ... the experience of an absolute perfect Saturday evening.It was for the ceremony and paddle out at Ehukai for a friend, Bobbie Kaleikau. I’ll never forget the images and feelings. They are etched on the hearts and minds of all who attended that late March 8 afternoon.

It was the day after the new moon. The skies were clear with light cirrus. The winds were calm and the sea was glassy, yet breathing with life. There was a surreal WNW rolling in at 5 feet. I’d never seen Pipeline this perfect at this size. Sometimes not a drop of water was out of place. It was relatively friendly and inviting ... even the groms (and I) gave it a go. Everywhere you looked was a picture-perfect postcard. The energy was playful and sweet.

And there we were, nearly 200 people hand-in-hand 100 yards off the shore right next to Pipeline in a glorious circle. This eternal moment was created soon after Tom Pohaku Stone spoke and chanted an amazing Moe Uhane (dream) he wrote. I must confess I’d never seen insights like this. The vision and wisdom were humbling and beautiful.

We were the lucky ones whose lives Bobbie made better just by being himself. He was there, too, sharing in the perfection. Nature was in rare form ... and you could see Bob smiling down.Pipeline sent more than a few spitting tubes our way for confirmation.

I wonder if while living here on earth he was aware just how much and how many others cared. With his incredibly inspiring love and friendship, it doesn’t feel like good-bye. Some souls live on inside us.

Please log onto SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM as I try to post Tom Stone’s tribute in the next few weeks ... along with, as always, all things surf.

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

 

A perfect moment for Kelly Slater - again

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers! The beautiful ride continues through this weekend into next week. The weather and surf have been amazing. For more than two weeks we get surf galore and mostly light trades and clear, dry skies. This scenario comes from “ridges” (long areas of high pressure) on or near the Islands. The large upper air currents or jet stream has been relatively low at about 30-40 degrees latitude. Hawaii sits at near 20 degrees, or roughly 1,500 miles south. This “jet” more than 20,000 feet up steers winter storms closer to the Islands, which in turn push the high pressures down and/or farther east. The end result is softer trades or even light and variables. This is why you have clear, cool, calm mornings and afternoon sea breezes, and cloud build-up due to land heating. Surfers get their waves from these easterly tracking storms up in the north Pacific, and they also get perfect conditions. Add perfect weather to this mix. Now you’re in heaven, Hawaii style.

Of course, sometimes things aren’t so perfect, such as when one of these lows get so low we have fronts move through. But let’s milk perfection for all its worth while it’s here.

Wow, that’s my segue for the next item! If there ever was a “perfect” surfer, I’d have to say he’s happy, alive and well today. In fact, on Monday he just won the first World Tour event of 2008 Down Under ... at the Quiksilver Pro. OK, I admit there’s no such thing as a totally perfect person or surfer or anything ... but there are perfect moments that inspire our ideas of what perfection even means. Like the weather and waves, Kelly Slater had his perfect moment ... again! The most-celebrated surfer ever to set foot on a board just reset the bar. He beat the current world champ Mick Fanning at his own home break. Fanning was defending his 2007 Quik Pro victory in front of thousands of loyal, frothing Aussies on the beach at Snapper Rock in Coolangatta, Australia. I’ve never seen such a scene ... just packed like sardines. Fanning was all pump and prowess, front and center, while Slater was low-key and under the radar ...until the quarters. That’s when Kelly started talking and surfing as though somehow he knew destiny and he were working together ... again. When this man gets into that state of mind there’s a roll, and there’s no stopping him. At 36, he’s beating guys more than a decade younger who grew up under the new school he created in the early ‘90s. In fact, he beat France’s claim to fame, rookie of 2007 and No. 8 ranked Jeremy Flores - who is just 19! Do the math ... that’s a 17-year age difference. Flores was 3 years old when Slater was the top rookie of 1991. Slater won against the most competitive/talented group of top 44 surfers of all time ... again. I pray he doesn’t stop competing for years to come, though he’s been talking more about retirement. Next up is the Rip Curl Pro at Bells Beach. Come on, ring that bell, Kelly Slater! Ring that bell and blow our minds ... again.

The Hui O He’e Nalu (aka: Da Hui) and Glaceau Vitamin Water are proud to present the “First Annual Da Hui Waimea Bay Shorebreak Shootout” either March 8 and 9 or March 15 and 16 (weekends only and surf permitting). This amateur bodysurfing event is a first at Waimea Bay shorebreak in more than 20 years. While most North Shore bodysurfing contests are held at the challenging Pipeline, Waimea shorebreak offers bodysurfers a chance to enjoy the sport with a nice sandbar and no-reef bottom. They’ve also added a “fun-kine"division called the “Kanaka Style Rubbah-Slippah Handboard Division,” meaning that competitors must use a rubber slipper on their hand in order to compete. I’ll be on da mic for Da Hui and Bobbie Kaleikau. For more details, log onto www.dahui.com or www.surfnewsnetwork.com

This event will be in memory of our friend Bobbie Kaleikau, who passed away Feb. 18 from acute bronchial pneumonia. Bob’s funeral is now set for tomorrow, March 8, 4:30 p.m. at Ehukai Beach Park. Surf permitting (should be about 5 feet) there will be a paddle out, followed by a potluck after and services at Ehukai Beach Park. Please bring any photos you have of Bob throughout the years as his family will be in attendance and wishes to catch up on much of his history in Hawaii. Thanks to L.G. and Cullen at WRV where Bobbie worked. He shared his beautiful smile and aloha with all who passed his way. You could never meet a nicer human being.

Catch you back here and out there catching waves ... perfect!

GQ, dropping in 4 U.

Swell ‘08, amazing Moore and Irons’ comeback

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers! 2008 is great ... in fact, that seems like an understatement. I dare you to count the number of swells we’ve had. OK, I’ll do it for you - 18! Not including the outof-season 4-foot south we just had. Not including any trade wind swells, as well. I’m going to claim it for Hawaii - no ka oi!

Oh, by the time you read this, it’ll be triple overhead ... again.

The 32nd annual Buffalo Big Board Surfing Classic finished up last weekend out at Makaha - of course. Where else? And where else would you find more than 15 divisions of surfing categories? Nowhere, that’s where. Only here in Hawaii ... and only out on the Wild West side. For hundreds of friendly surfing folks from all over the world it was a visual feast in small but rippable conditions.

Watch for results at WWW.REALBVOICE.COM and SNN.

The Fosters World Tour is on in Coolangatta, Australia, for the Quiksilver and Roxy Pro presented by LG. The performance levels this year are ridiculous. One sweet local talent who seems to be doing well again is 15-year-old Carissa Moore. She just seems to love this place. Last year she created a new world record and came in second place! This is like Tiger Woods coming in second in the Masters at age 14. There’s no one around her age doing such things. Carissa just smiles. She’s having fun. That’s really even more amazing. Maybe youth is her asset in this area. She doesn’t realize how profound her performance is at her tender age. Watch her surf a heat though, and she’s not so tender. Ms. Moore wants more ... victories. Trouble is, as of Tuesday (Feb. 26) she’s got another freakish talent in her next third-round heat. Australia’s Stephanie Gilmore - the current world champ - is the first rookie in surfing history to win the world title. That tells you a lot right there. No matter what the outcome ...we are always proud of you, Carissa! Now go get her.

As for the men, I can’t believe my eyes at the maneuvers these dudes are doing. It’s like they’re free surfing in the heat of competition. The new boys on the block are going to keep our “old-timers” on their heels, for sure. I’m real curious about Andy Irons’“comeback” ... My gut says the gnarlier the waves, the better his chances. The grapevine says he’s hungry and in fighting shape. This is the stuff that makes for an exciting year. You know, AI had a “bad” year in 2007 ... and still placed sixth. Only one other American guy was in front of him - Kelly Slater, the greatest surfer of all time. How our standards can change once you develop “freak of nature” status. Mr. Irons is Hawaii’s greatest competitive surfer of all time. And it took one drop for a negative evaluation. Can you imagine that kind of pressure? Dude, you only came in sixth?

As for me, I’m happy with sixth place in the lineup. One out of every six waves over two hours and I’m exhausted ... but stoked!

Hope you’re getting your fill. See you back here next week. There’s going to be tons to talk about.

GQ ... Dropping in 4 U!

 

Getting some love in Valentine’s surf

Howzit, surfers!

Rolling past the middle of February was sweet. I mean, how many Valentines treat you to 20-foot waves? There was plenty romancing and dancing out in the deep blue. Waimea Bay was just as pretty as it gets ... I suppose that’s why most surfers preferred expressing their affections there. Talk about a love fest. Waimea was outnumbered about a hundred to one. Oh, well, I guess some spots have all the luck.

There were, however, more than a few lonely outer reefs that got some attention.

Chances are this will be one of our biggest and best of the season. Though we will still see many double to triple (even quadruple) overhead days through March. This week the jet stream (large upper air currents) has marched far past the dateline (180 degrees longitude) to the east in a consolidated flow at about 35-40 degrees latitude, dude. So our “steerer of storms” should keep our hopes alive for a long-lasting relationship into spring. Hope is in the air.

The Quiksilver Edition/C4 Waterman Stand Up Paddle (SUP) Surf event went off the hook on Valentine’s Day in 8-12-foot Makaha Point. When I say they paddled into some whompers, I mean they paddled, literally. It can’t be easy keeping that much board under your feet ... under control ... with a paddle! Normally, surfers like a board to “grip” the surface, allowing them to stabilize. This is why big wave guns are narrow and relatively thin. You want to hold onto the face and not skid. But there they were ... the best SUP dudes around streaming down the blue ocean walls of Makaha ... using the paddle for better carving and leverage.

In the field of 32 surfers, 24 were from here. So it was no surprise to find all four Hawaiian finalists smiling for the cameras. In fourth, Kamu Auwae; third, Ikaika Kalama; second, Keoni Keaulana, and winning it was Aaron Napolean. Every single name here has a ton of mojo and mana. The Hawaiian heritage of world class watermen had shown brightly this Valentine’s Day. Now add the back drop of big, sunny Makaha and West Side aloha ... and you have a classic day for the surf history book.

The IBA (International Bodyboarding Association) Pipe Pro is likely to have just completed as last Tuesday through Thursday had great waves. To be sure, call the hotline 396-3963 and log on at SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM. I’ll have photos and stats. It’s awesome to see body boarding making a comeback. They are every bit the world class athletes of their counterpart board surfers. Excellence is excellence. The best are the best, no matter what the chosen endeavor. To see these guys launch in the heaviest sections of Pipe ... or get so stuffed you can’t see them ... even though you’re looking straight into the tube…is astonishing! This kicks off the 2008 World Bodyboarding Men’s title race. The reigning 2007 champ Ben Player from Australia will be defending. Thanks to Haleiwa’s skate and body board head quarters, Crank n Carve (637-2020), for their support.

The Jeannie Chesser Pro Board fundraiser was a huge success, thanks to the huge support of the surf community. This was a day to witness what friends can do in time of need. I was blown away - especially how hard Mark Cunningham worked. Beau Hodge was there too, working more than the mic at the auction. There were so many jumping into the game. Jeannie Chesser is doing very well and is very blessed. Her cancer seems to be responding well to treatment. She was happy to share her smiles and tears with all who came out. I have some sweet photos in the SNNHAWAII.COM gallery .

Ill see you out in the line up and back here next week.

Special thanks to Gary Miyata for the great shot of those seven surfers dropping in for a little Valentine’s love at Waimea Bay. For more superb action check GaryMSCreations.com

 

A BIG time for the North Shore

Aloha, surfers!

The waves are high rockin’ and rollin’! In fact, BIG Thursday cracks the outer reefs and the bay. We have warnings posted and wave warriors panting. This storm should be one of the biggest of the season. There should be many more above advisory NW swells through February. This is the stuff that makes Hawaii stand apart, and most surfers actually preferring the surf to go down - at least a little… please.

The Bank of Hawaii/Atlas Sales North Shore Tow In Surfing Championships really wants to go off in bigger surf this year. Last year was 8-15 feet off Puena Point. Ideally, Da Tow Boys are reaching for 20-30 feet. No matter what, though, you can bet when the day comes it will be worth seeing. I was out at the point last year witnessing the fastest down-the-line, high-performance tow boarding I’d ever seen. That was the year Makua Rothman and Ikaika Kalama won it. To know for sure if they grabbed Thursday’s whopper, log on to SURFNEWSNET-WORK.COM or call 638-RUSH.

I’ll also keep you posted on a new event to take the lineup - it is the 2008 Quiksilver Edition Ku Ikaika Challenge off Makaha Point. The holding period is Jan. 15 to the end of February. This is a one-day event and may nab the above-mentioned swell. Competitors will come from California, Tahiti, Australia ... as well as locally. The world’s first big-wave stand-up-paddle (SUP) surfing event is presented by C4 Waterman and Red Bull. The first time I saw the SUP style it just happened to be out at Makaha on a 10-foot day; the surfer just happened to be Brian Keaulana - who just happens to be the one I’m placing my bets on. I simply couldn’t believe my eyes. He didn’t sit down for over an hour while sweeping and paddling on triple overhead walls of clear, blue Makaha. This was before SUP took off.

The 2008 Fosters ASP World Tour kicks off in Australia not this weekend but next! What an ultra-exciting year this will be! The 11 events will be the most competitive season ever with the new school vs. old, and Australia vs. the U.S.! Will Kelly Slater grab his record ninth title or will Andy Irons make a comeback and nab his fourth? Or will world champ Mick Fanning prove he’s no one-title wonder? Only Slater is in the top five ... the rest are from Down Under: Fanning, Burrow, Parkinson and Durbidge. The top 10 shows us doing a little better with four Americans and one French kid (Jeremy Flores, the rookie of 2007). But all in all, Fanning has broken the barrier for the Land of Oz - and now they really feel like skipping down the yellow brick road to victory. Hopefully, someone from Hawaii or the Mainland states will know how to click his (bare) heels and bring us home again.

The surf community will really be coming together in unity for the Pro Board/Jeannie Chesser benefit and the Defend Oahu Coalition this Saturday at Waimea Valley Audubon Center. Master body surfer Mark Cunningham is helping put together a beautiful thing for a beautiful human being. Jeannie, of course, is fighting huge medical bills and a dangerous, rare cancer, Merkel cell carcinoma (MCC). It’s an aggressive and scary cancer that forms on or just under the skin. In the U.S. there are more than 1 million new cases of non-melanoma per year and about 60,000 new cases of melanoma. Now take Merkel cell ... there are only about 1,200 new cases diagnosed per year. It is definitely linked to sun exposure, but the exact cause of MCC is unknown. This should be a wakeup call to everyone, fair- or dark-skinned, especially in Hawaii where ultraviolet rays are most powerful. Wear sun block - generously - well before you head for the beach ... every single time!

There are nearly 50 pro surfers donating and autographing their personal quivers for a raffle and auction (both silent and live). We’ve got jewelry, original art, books, photography and (of course) surf wear! There are also autographed items from Jimmy Buffett and Jack Johnson, live music, good vibes and times. Basically, we’ve got a huge surf party with a huge purpose. SNN is proud to be a sponsor along with Primo Island Lager and Quiksilver Foundation. Go to JEANNIECHESSER.COM to see how you can help.

See you Saturday and back here next week.

GQ, dropping in 4 U! Mahalo to J/B of Hawaiian Water Shots for the sick pic ...

 

Monster Pro, beach access and Turtle Bay

Aloha, surfers and free beach accessors,

Wow, what poor weather, wind and waves we had earlier this week. The dirty water runoff kept many ocean-going folks out for the count, especially for Kauai and Hawaii. The waves weren’t worth the risk. Choppy trade swells topped the heights at 5 feet. The Monster Energy Pipeline Pro had to go in un-Pipe-like conditions. So did the Honolua Surf Co. Pipeline Body Surfing Champs. Oh well, at least now things have turned for the better (read bigger).

If you are picking this up around Thursday or Friday, you’ll see great waves at advisory levels for our North Shore. This one drops out through Saturday, but not to worry ... there is tons of heavy water on the way warming up Sunday and heavier Tuesday (read outer reefs). The Jet Stream, or large, upper air current, has better odds of steering storms closer to the Islands - this means bigger waves from Feb. 12 and beyond. We’ll soon forget our lackluster moments (read selective memory). Such below-average periods for the Aloha State remind us how most others around the globe live out their surf lives. In Hawaii, surfers simply ride out those times like a short chop on the wave face. We get over it.

One thing surfers can’t get over is paying for what has been free parking forever at Bowls, Kaisers and other free beach accesses across the state. The other thing is over-development at Turtle Bay ... or any rural stretch of Hawaiian country. The rallies on Jan. 25 and Feb. 2 pumped up by Melissa of Common Ground Hawaii (great name) were huge successes in that so many participated. As many already know, “One fish alone and separated from its school is easily overwhelmed (and eaten), but together the group can (survive) and make a difference.” (common-groundhawaii.net) Very true ... yet, this also reminds me of another saying: “Wisdom is the knowledge of what is right, virtue is acting on it.”

It looks as though our governor has both. Linda Lingle has proposed the purchase of the 850-acre Turtle Bay Resort in order to “Keep the Country, Country.” Sure it’s ambitious (some estimate near a billion bucks) and a far distance from “here” to “there” ... but she’s right! This is our chance of a generation to preserve a lifestyle and natural resource. Let me say, if traffic and crowds get any worse up there, locals and visitors will eventually ... leave! So will the turtles. This would come back to bite our fiscal behinds, to put it mildly.

Again, wisdom tells us to keep the things that make our home ... well, a home - the kind of home others like to visit and return to. Virtue is doing something about it ... to protect and preserve this Island home. That’s our governor. Surfers, as well, are protecting their precious territory - and why not? It is our free blessings of nature. They don’t want it compromised for cash. They don’t like selling out long-term preservation for short-term profits.

Well, that’s going to wrap up my ramble for this week. Mahalo for being right here. I look forward to seeing you in the lineup and in MidWeek!

For results of the Billabong/Monster Energy Pipeline Pro and Honolua Surf Company Pipeline Body surfing Classic, log on to SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM.

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

 

January swells, Pipe champs and bravo Bethany

Howzit, surfers!

There went January ... and what a January it was! I’ll measure it up against almost anywhere in the world. Those who think it wasn’t great are greatly spoiled. The North Shore averaged about 6- to 8-foot local scale. Most surfers in the world would drool for their local break to average double to triple overhead. January finished off with a triple overhead NE swell and NW swell, both within a few days of each other. Right now we see a string of smaller, fun-size swells that most can handle. Remember, February is still one of the BIG three months of winter; we can still dream of a couple more outer reef and bay days ... this means four- to six-times overhead. Feel better now?

We are in the holding period of the Billabong-Monster Energy Pipeline Pro and Honolua Surf Company (owned by Billabong) Pipeline Body Surfing Championships. I’m compelled to extend this great surf company my gratitude for its commitment to Pipe and those who dare to ride it. Jamie O’Brien is the defending champ ... and yes, he’s the same dude who just won the Da Hui Back Door Shoot Out.So watch out ... he’s going all out. I also wish to say thanks to my buddy Beau Hodge, who corrected my error last column. Jamie has won not just four but five events at the Pipe. The one I left out was last year’s Monster Energy ... whoops. The other guy who’s won five events is three-time world champ Andy Irons. Many forget (unless you’re Beau Hodge) that AI won the HIC Pipe Pro back in ‘96 when he was a 17-year-old amateur. Add that to his amazing string of four Billabong Pipeline Masters, and you have five! The only other guy to surpass these freakish numbers with six Pipeline Masters is the freakiest freak to ever surf planet Earth - Kelly Slater.As with Tiger Woods, some wonder if he’s from this sector of the solar system.

Speaking of inspiration, have you heard the news about world surf hero Bethany Hamilton? She lost an arm and nearly her life in a brutal shark attack on the North Shore of Kauai in 2003. Since then, she’s never given up but, instead, has lifted her new life up to the Lord. Fast forward to today: She reached - with one arm - the semi finals of the 6-Star WQS Roxy Surf Festival on Jan. 25.

It was held in Phillip Island, Australia, and they were all amazed! “She blows my mind,“contest director and former 12-time ASP World Tour event winner Jodi Cooper said of Hamilton’s performance. “I don’t think a lot of people fathom the effort this young lady goes through to not only paddle out, but the technique it takes to stand up and then, once she’s up, the balance and body rotation she demonstrates to complete those big turns.”

How do you surf at a world class level with just one arm? Bethany knows.“I’m feeling so blessed right now,“Hamilton said.“I want to start off by giving Jesus all the glory because he’s the reason I can surf and mentally make it through every day. I’m so stoked with these results, and my goal is to win the whole event, so I’m just going to do my best.”

The pros know her abilities and surf against her with all the strength and determination they and their two arms can muster. But when you have Bethany’s raw experience coupled with deep faith and focus, well, you pick off the best wave in the last minutes and get the job done ... no excuses. This result is her best ever. Bethany is a blessing to us all - surfer or not.

Last items: The rally to save our free parking at Bowls and Kaisers was a huge success. Mahalo for the support! We have the next sea level community support event for Jeannie Chesser and Defend Oahu Coalition marching up to Waimea Falls Feb 16.We - a bunch of you - really do make the difference in this great country we live. It’s all about suiting up and showing up. And, what do you know? That’s how we all began surfing.

Thanks for reading ... See you back here next week in MidWeek!

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

Call the Billabong/Monster contestant hotline for on or off status
at 638-RUSH and 596-SURF. Also
SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM.

 

What’s coming down the Pipe

Aloha surfers and beachgoers, It’s a BIG Happy New Year; there are more waves rolling than can be ridden. Waimea Bay has cracked five days, and the outer reefs even more than that. Since New Year’s Day the North Shore has averaged over 8 feet (triple-plus overhead). As for last week, since Sunday’s 20-foot storm surf (Jan. 13) we saw two much cleaner NW swells. The one that hit late Thursday (Jan. 17) reached over advisory levels (15 feet crest to trough). The second one greeted us on Monday - smaller but still super fun, which is what it’s all about. The trades have ranged from moderate (10-20) to fresh (15-25) and conditions good to epic. Wow, you just can’t beat Hawaii for size and consistency.

There’s been so much going on in the surf arena it’s hard to keep up. The Da Hui Back Door Shoot Out finished Saturday (Jan. 12) in huge 10-foot gapping barrels. Winning the non-elimination, non-rated local event was none other than Vans Triple Crown Pipeline master Jamie O’Brien. This is his third victory at the Pipe.

He won the Hansen’s Pipeline Pro in 2003, the Rip Curl Pipe Masters in 2004 and now this one. You can bet on it and you can feel it ... “The Freak” has a few more wins down the road at this infamous spot he calls his back yard. Jamie had to best Pipe specialist Bruce Irons to win the $50,000 up for grabs. Bruce pocketed $25,000 for second place, Ola Eleogram got $15,000 for third place, and Markus Hickman received $10,000 for fourth, with Mark Healy and Myles Padaca each grabbing $5,000 in a tie for fifth place.

Next up for the highly valued, hard-to-get Pipeline permits is the Pipeline Body Surfing Classic presented by Honolua Surf Co. along with the Monster Energy Pipeline Pro presented by Billabong. Notice how someone’s gotta “present” or there’s no contest. The waiting period is Jan. 27 through Feb. 6. Don’t miss the world’s best surfers using only their bodies. Let’s hope they don’t get the same size surf as the “shootout.”

But, for the board surfers, that’s exactly what they want - 10-foot gaping holes you could drive a semi through! This will be another chance for the local contingent to prove themselves against the international threat. This is the first big-wave event of the 2008 WQS (World Qualifying Series). When it comes to the world’s most-touted wave, surfers must be more than competitive surfers ... they must be competitive daredevils.

Then we wait nearly a year before the granddaddy of all surf contests hits again - the Billabong Pipeline Masters. It seems far away now, but just watch ... it’ll creep up like a sneaker set.

Hey, speaking of human species that use only their bodies to ride waves ... check out the Pyramid Rock Body Surfing Championship finals this Saturday - surf pending! They were “supposed” to finish Sunday, Jan. 13, but a 20-foot swell said “NO, YOU DON’T!” Indeed, respect for Mother Nature is one of the lessons surfers are taught early on. The event will be held under guard of sacred Pyramid Rock and is open to the public. Money from this event will be used by 3rd Marines, the sponsoring command, to benefit the families of our fallen and injured heroes. Please log on (www.mccshawaii.com/bodysurf.htm) and hit it there Saturday!

Last, but not least, we finished the pro division of the Hard Rock/No Fear Junior Pro at Sunset Beach. We have till Jan. 25 to finish the amateurs. Former contest director Reid Inouye has passed the reins off to Pipe specialist Liam McNamara (BIG wave warrior Garrett’s bro) to run the contest under Koastal Kaos. We saw the ASP-sanctioned 1-Star Junior Pro deliver more than 50 top pro rippers mostly from Hawaii go off the hook. They got good, big 8- to 12-foot Sunset on Friday. Whoa, talk about training for the WCT! It’s a reality and commitment check all in one contest. Good luck to our future surf stars. Call 638-RUSH and 596-SURF for all contest status.

Winning 2K for the event and a WQS seeding was North Shore rez rippa Kiron Jabour. He’s Brazilian-born but raised here since he was 4. Get complete results on my website.

Thanks for dropping in! See you here next week!

GQ, dropping in for you ... from SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM

 

Surfing more spots

Happy New Year, surfers and beachgoers!

Whoa, where’d 2007 go? Most surfers like speed, but this is ridiculous. It reminds me of those periods when you surf a lot every day for a long stretch and the days blend into one big barrel. Our lives are busy and blessed,so I guess that’s why time flies by.

Well, why not throw down a few Surf Resolutions to kick off 2008? OK, here are a few of mine:

1) Surf more variety of spots ... My plan is to start far out toward Kaena Point and work from left to right (facing the surf).I’m not going to mention the names of the breaks, but let’s say I have my “work"cut out for me.Several spots in between will be missed.However, I’ll easily ride more than 30 spots I don’t regularly surf. By the time I get near Polynesian Culture Center it will likely be Christmas again. Oh, poor me.

2) Gotta try the SUP, or stand up paddle boarding.Something tells me this will trim some weight off my midsection - and bank account. Not that either of those has much to trim. But from what surfers like Brian Keaulana (C4 Waterman) and Reid Inouye (Heavy Water Mag) say, one hour of SUP equals three or four hours of surfing. I know how I felt the last time I surfed four hours ... it took me four days to recoup.So wish me well ... and don’t laugh.

3) Try to think less of work while surfing (and vice versa). It sounds easier than it is ... especially when you’re in the surf business. For example,I’m out surfing Sunset and

Randy Rarick (North Shore Surf Mayor) paddles over and we discuss the Vans Triple Crown. All of a sudden a set rolls in, and Randy stops our board meeting to catch the best wave of the set and leave me sitting there. Is that a “board meeting”? You bet it is.We are officially working - and Randy got the best deal. I know your heart pumps peanut butter for us both. But hey, someone’s got to do it.

So,how about it? Send me a New Year Surf Resolution at: .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address). I’ll post the best ones.And good luck with yours ... you now have less than 365 days. Do not write these at work.

Otherwise, the forecast is looking decent but not great. There’s a run of near advisory North swells with cold NE winds. These are Hawaii standards though. So don’t worry, be happy! Remember, “decent” sounds like a cheap shot to those visiting surfers.You know, our guests think we’re rubbing it in when we complain about how freezing it feels whenever it drops below 65 degrees. But we don’t mean to be mean - we really are freezing.And if the waves aren’t tubing overhead and offshore, we really are bumming. I mean, you try living in paradise without getting spoiled. It’s hard!

Hey, there’s a good New Year’s Resolution - try not taking what we have for granted. That’s the ticket ... seriously. When I get chilled from a Northeast trade wind I’m not going to worry, but be happy; it’s warm enough to be outside in shorts and T -with slippers! When I paddle out in a 3-foot trade swell at Diamond Head I’m not going to worry, but be happy by staying in shape and enjoying the view.

I have to program my brain to automatically download the timeless phrase of renowned surf videographer Larry Haines:“It’s all good.” Hey, what do I have to lose but a little frustration, worry and disappointment? Then it will be easier to program my three pounds of gray matter to automatically upload gratitude, contentment and ... stoke!

Sounds good to me. I’m feeling better already!

Thank you for all the time you spend here with MidWeek.Let’s look forward to another awesome year in the surf.

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

 

Paddling into a swell 2008

Happy Hollow Days, surfers! As we close out 2007 and head into 2008, there are still waves and contests galore. Yes, the biggest surfing event in the world (Vans Triple Crown) is over, but the waves keep rolling. And yes, competition has quieted down, but we keep surfing. The 38th annual Haleiwa International Open (HIO) presented by Surf N Sea is going on right now at Ali’i Beach Park. There were actually bigger waves this past week than any since the 15-foot NW swell Dec. 6. On Monday, Dec. 17, the Billabong Pipe Masters had to finish in 2- to 4-foot surf ... the smallest in its 37-year his- tory. So relatively speaking, the HIO is scoring. This four-day event is Planet Earth’s longest- running amateur surf contest, and will have to finish by Dec 31. By the looks of the forecast, this won’t be any problem whatsoever. It may be over by the time you read this. So go to www.hiohawaii.com to get the latest.

The jet stream has dropped itself farther south (from about 50 degrees north latitude to below 40), steering storms closer to Hawaii’s winter averages. The jet is large-scale upper air currents, which influence our weather and waves. Closer storms mean bigger waves. There’s always an exception, but we should see plenty advisory swells the first few months of ‘08. The upcoming surf event directors are smiling.

The next professional contest on the schedule is Da Hui’s Backdoor Shootout at the Banzai Pipeline, Jan. 2-13. Backdoor is right off Pipeline. It’s the same spot, different wave; it peels right and into a shallower inside than her left-handed partner. Yes, you read that right. Many pros and hard-core locals are more cautious of the right-hander

because of its shore bottom contours. There’s no place like Pipe.

I can almost guarantee that nature will make up for her lack at the Vans semi-grand finale. I must interject that if our North Shore surf mayor Randy Rarick and crew didn’t go on the exact day they did, they would have had to finish in 2-foot slop. They definitely made the best call with what they had.

And frankly, spectators were blown away with the surfing. It may not have been Pipeline, but it was still a Pipeline Masters title for all time - with the trophy, cash and car! Bede Durbidge is still stoked out of his mind. Will it take another 10 years for an Aussie to win a Vans Triple Crown? Something tells me no. I can’t wait another year to find out ... but I guess I don’t have much choice, do I? ...

Next up, the Hard Rock Junior Pro, for the state’s top surfers age 21 and younger, is scheduled for Jan. 14-25. Mason Ho will defend his title and continue the Ho Dynasty at Sunset Beach (or any- where on the North Shore, for that matter). I’d bet some money that Coco Ho (Michael’s 16-year- old daughter) could take down more than a few men out there. Stay tuned, and I’ll cover it all here and you know where ... surfnewsnetwork.com

Let’s round out the end of January and the first week of

February. The Pipeline Bodysurfing Classic at the Banzai Pipeline is scheduled Jan. 27 to Feb. 6. This one-day event will have 48 competitors and 18 alternates.

Registration starts Dec. 27 online at www.pipebodysurf.com. The purest form of wave riding will be at the world’s most dangerous reef. The world’s top body surfers will tube ride and glide, swirl and twirl, wipeout and bow out ... so don’t miss out.

That should keep us busy and wet over the next month or so. I’ll keep you posted on it all at www.surfnewsnetwork.com. There’s a calendar link - go there or be square.Thanks to you for being here and for all your sup- port in 2007.

Stoked!

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

 

The low-key champ from Down Under

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers, As the men hunted for waves, the women had gathered all their crowned champions.

Yes, the women finished first. It all went down at Maui’s Honolua Bay during the Billabong Pro last Thursday and Friday, Dec. 13 and 14.Winning the world title was 19-year-old Australian Stephanie Gilmore in her maiden season! That’s a women’s world record. In fact, only Kelly Slater won his first full-time ASP season in 1992, but he did most of 1991. So he wasn’t exactly fresh off the boat, or on the board ... so to speak. Gilmore also pulled off another record in 2005 by becoming the youngest (17 years old) surfer to win a major tour event: the Roxy Pro Gold Coast in Australia. This year she won four of the eight events. She’s simply amazing and here for the long haul.

“It’s been such an incredible year for me,“Gilmore said.“Everything from traveling with my friends to winning events to claiming the title on Maui, it’s all been so much fun. I can’t believe it. To finish the year with another win, I’m just over the moon.” -aspworldtour.com

Then Hawaii’s very own super talent Megan Abubo showed the surfing world that local knowledge, big-wave prowess and perseverance pay off - she won the 2007 Vans Triple Crown! She even did this with a severe stomach injury at the Roxy Pro Sunset Beach just prior - one tough cookie. Abubo won $10,000 as well as a brand-new Chevy truck!

“Wow, I’m super stoked that Vans puts on the Triple Crown,” Abubo said.“It’s such a good thing for women’s surfing, to allow us to showcase our talents in the big waves of Hawaii. I am so happy right now; I don’t really have words to describe it. It’s been a long time since a Hawaiian has taken the Vans Triple Crown, and I am honored to bring it back to the Islands.” -aspworldtour.com

Then on Monday, Dec. 17, we crowned the new Pipeline master and Triple Crown champ. Both prestigious titles went to one man - a guy known to slip under the radar: Australian Bede Durbidge. He’s super low key and likeable, and lets his surfing do the talking.

Durbidge is one of the world tour’s most feared competitors - right up there with Slater and Irons (his favorite surfers).

He’s 24, tall (6-foot-1) and lanky (180 pounds) and obviously brimming with confidence, drive and talent.

Durbidge hails from the Gold Coast of Australia and surfs spots at Currumbin. He loves aerials and tubes - and you should see his smooth, radical carves. These are the cutting edge criteria required to do well on the Foster’s ASP World Tour.

It’s been 10 years since Australia won a Triple Crown! (Mike Rommelse, 1997)

“I’m absolutely over the moon right now,” Durbidge said. “Obviously the conditions weren’t classic Pipeline, but the competition was still pretty intense ... I’m absolutely stoked. It’s a great way for me to finish the season, and I’m looking to go even better in 2008 ... Winning the Triple Crown has been a dream of mine for a long, long time and I’ve always felt like proving yourself in Hawaii is right up there with winning the World Title.” - aspworldtour.com

You can read more on this man with the difficult name at BEDEDURBIDGE.COM. Expect to see and hear more from him in 2008. He wants a world title, and will keep 2008 on its toes.

So the 2007 Vans Triple Crown is done and with it the ASP World Tour. Lotsa pros are boarding planes this weekend to be with family and friends for the holidays.

It’s a time to reflect and rejuvenate.

One thing’s for sure, 2008 will be one of the most interesting tours in years as the land Down Under takes over. Or will the good ol’ U.S.A. take back the titles? It’s been about a decade of American domination. In Australia, surfing is as big as football, basketball, baseball, golf, tennis - their surf stars are as big as our American sports stars. This helps with motivation and focus when a whole nation is backing you. It’s the Aussie Pride, and it’s powerful.

It will be a treat to see our nations compete - ‘08 will be great!

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!

GQ, dropping In 4 U!

 

Those hungry dudes Down Under

Howzit, surfers!

It’s hard to grasp, but we really are in the final days of the 25th annual Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. The final jewel is the Billabong Pipe Masters - a three-day visual feast for spectators ... a barrel fest for competitors. Though the first two events had waves that were too big for Haleiwa and Sunset, the last contest will have to go too small at Pipeline. This doesn’t mean that it won’t be exciting and dangerous, oh no! In fact, when Pipe is under 8 feet it breaks closer to shore, where it’s extremely shallow.When it’s 10-12 feet, it breaks in deeper, safer waters ... if you can call it “safe” at all.

The first days of competition for this final World Champ Tour (WCT) event went on Monday and Tuesday in waves ranging from 4 to 7 feet with good conditions.Tons of tubes were ridden as this is one of the main - if not the main - maneuver the judges look for.

This Foster’s ASP World Tour event also completes the $740,000 Vans Triple Crown. It is the most coveted title next to a world title. At this juncture, it looks as though an Australian (Bede Durbidge or Mick Fanning) may win it, but let’s see what Makua Rothman(Oahu) and Roy Powers (Kauai) have to say about that.

One thing’s for sure,there are two “changing of the guards"happening. One is the newer kids on the block, and secondly, those starving Aussies from Down Under. There’s a pack of new WCT men ready to take over where Kelly Slater is starting to leave off.Plus,the top 10 have had - for years - mostly Australians vying for that elusive top slot. The big problem they used to have was twofold: Slater and Irons. Now, with Mick Fanning busting down the mental barrier with the first Aussie World Champ since 1999, we Americans are likely to see the title slip away for quite some time.

Now,this is only my humble prediction. Can our surf stars - old or new - stop the new surge?

Times are a changing.

The women are looking for a world champ as of this writing over at the Billabong Pro Maui. One of the world’s best waves is Honolua Bay at the upper west side of the Valley Isle, so the ladies are stoked. It looks as though the USA is out of the running for top honors for the 2007 ASP Women’s World Title. It boils down to three talented surfers: Stephanie Gilmore (AUS), Sofia Mulanovich (PER) and Silvana Lima (BRA). All these ladies have proved to be impressive out at Honolua Bay; expect them to keep their campaigns alive in round 2. Log on to SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM to read about it.

As far as the Vans Triple Crown goes for the women, Hawaii is still in the running with Megan Abubo, who won the Reef Hawaiian Pro at Haleiwa. Her nearest rival is Sofia Mulanovich,who won the Roxy Pro at Sunset. You go, girls!

So how much energy do surfers have left after a day in the water? Thursday night it’s the Heavy Water Magazine and Surf Rider benefit at O Lounge till 4 a.m. Then Friday night it’s the North Shore Lifeguard Association fundraiser/party at Waimea Falls. Let’s not leave out Womens Surf Style Magazine party at Indigo the same night.

See you back here next week ... surf and party safe.

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

 

Surviving big Sunset for the World Cup

Welcome to December, surfers! Warning-level waves continue to pound the country ... and make it difficult for grabbing smaller days for the Vans Triple Crown. Only in Hawaii is this a “problem.“Most Foster’s World Tour spots pray for big enough surf. We’re hoping for small enough - insane. Hawaii’s blessings of nature are confirmed nearly every year. This is truly a seven-mile miracle ... the ultimate surfing challenge.

As of this writing, we didn’t yet have an O’Neill World Cup champ, but being as the last day of the holding period is Thursday, Dec. 6, we do now! Check out the fresh details at triplecrownofsurfing.com or surfnewsnetwork.com. And, as always, call the Vans and SNN hot-lines for contest status: 596-SURF, 638-RUSH.

One thing’s for sure, this was the most difficult Sunset Beach in contest history. Surfers had to deal with two days of raw, maxed-out, closed-out Sunset. Outer reefs would break miles out before steamrolling the entire huge lineup. Even the caddies and jet skis were in danger. Once the competition ended Monday at 12:15 p.m., lifeguards promptly closed the beach ... sealed off to save lives. This was about survival, according to the pros, who had no choice but to face off against Sunset. The place can drown you at 8 feet, let alone twice that big. Thank God no one was seriously hurt.

One thing I heard over and over again was how deceiving it looked from the beach or the live webcast. But it’s exponentially harder once you’re out there. Sunset’s quality actually deteriorates above 12 feet and leaves too much to chance for competitors. The waves at 15 feet move all over the place; often it’s just the luck of being in the right place at the right time. The opposite is also true - being in the wrong place at the wrong time. These waves could have drowned 10 out of 100 intermediate surfers. You see, the pros are also pros at saving their own tails.

My appreciation for Randy Rarick, Bernie Baker and the judges grew as I witnessed their excruciating decision-making process. There’s an art and science to this thing called “making the call.” To get the best three or four days of surf out of two weeks in a year like this is profoundly difficult. But as I add up all the days (it’s my job to observe first and then report), I can tell you that they make the best calls. They are professionals.

This Sunday the men slide down the beach a couple of miles for the Billabong Pipeline Masters - the third and final Jewel of the 25th annual Vans Triple Crown.

The women hop a plane over to Honolua Bay for the Billabong Pro Maui. They have till Dec 20. The women will crown the World and Triple Crown titles, and the men claim their Triple Crown and Pipe Master. Australian Mick Fanning attained his first men’s world title two tour events ago ...

This Saturday, come on down at 8:30 a.m. to show support for the “Free Beach Access/No Parking Fees Rally/March”! The march is along Ala Moana Boulevard from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. There’ll be refreshments, guest speakers, picture-taking and music. Meet at Bowls/Kaiser parking lot, McCoy Pavilion or Magic Island. The core question is: Do you want to pay $$$ to surf, paddle, swim, fish or just hang loose with family and friends? For more, please, please e-mail .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)

Hey, the man, the myth, the legend ... Woody Brown has a one-hour PBS Hawaii presentation Dec. 11 called Of Wind and Waves. This 94-year-old ocean pioneer is truly a Hawaiian treasure. Don’t miss it.

Don’t miss being here next week either!

Aloha and mahalo, GQ, dropping in 4 U!

 

Amazing Hanalei Powers

Aloha, surfers and beach-goers! Whoa ... the Reef Hawaiian Pro on Black Friday was the biggest since 1991. We saw Planet Earth’s best wave riders challenging 6- to 12-foot Haleiwa in all its gruesome glory.

Indeed, the current reminded me of Robert Redford’s A River Runs Through It, only here men were fishing for waves the size of whales. Plenty sets at Avalanche (outside to the left) were easily 15 feet and closed out Haleiwa when they washed through. All the surfers could do was bail out. The waves that were “makeable” were heavy, heaving barrels, impossible for most surfers. But this day da boys proved why they’re pros. They are the best big-wave riders as well as small-wave aerialists.

In addition, most don’t realize that on rare days like this, catching the waves was often more difficult than riding them! The currents and shifty lineup were at an all-time high. But when they did latch on and make that elevator drop, the surfers proceeded to lay down the law. They performed controlled bottom turns from behind cascading lips before carving up the face! The next moves were committed top turns back down into the turmoil; races down the uncertain whaling walls were max speed; barrels were unbelievable and high-flying kickouts were incredible! Often, wave warriors had to straighten out as the mountains fell in front and behind them. Broken boards were plenty. This was survival.

Meet Roy Powers ... winner of the Reef Hawaiian Pro. Born July 1, 1981, and hailing from Hanalei, this talented good guy took out a field that has catapulted him into surf star status. Not a bad day at work ... even if it wasn’t easy. And, just in case you think he’s new to the competitive surf scene, take another look. He hit the grueling world qualifying series (WQS) in 2002, trying to break into the world championship tour (WCT) but finishing 123rd. Roy came again in 2003, hitting 71st. Meeting the mark in 2004 was missed by one heat at the O’Neill World Cup. Most would’ve given up at this point, but not the tough Kauaian. This will-powered man entered the wet ring again in 2005 and placed ninth ... making it into the 2006 WCT! There he struggled as a rookie with ratings mostly in the 30s, thereby not gaining access in 2007. Well, ladies and gentleman, WCT Powers is back for 2008, thanks to his win at Haleiwa!

It’s more proof that good things usually don’t come without effort and perseverance ... though talent and timing do play in.

Roy Powers rips. He pulled into some amazing and complex barrels out there in the final heat that “comboed” the other three. Oh, they were good surfers themselves: Bede Durbidge and Joel Parkinson from Australia and local Sean Moody. What “comboed” means is that those guys each had to catch two waves to match one of Roy’s! His waves and moves were so good he had a score line of 18.84 out of 20 - the highest scores of the contest and five points ahead of his nearest rival, Bede. Roy’s huge margin - on a day where one wave can drown you or your energy, and paddle-outs are minimum five minutes - left the others knowing they were whipped before the bell. So, upon their last rides with five minutes remaining ... all three left the water with Powers out alone doing his victory laps! No one has ever seen such a scene. It was one of the most conclusive victories in Association of Surfing Professionals history.

“I wanted another opportunity to get on the WCT,” Powers was quoted in an ASP press release.“I was a little cocky before. Now I think I’ve grown up a bit and I realize it’s not that easy and it won’t be a walk in the park. Now I want to win the Triple Crown - to me, that’s priceless.”

Good luck, Roy Powers.

Now we’re at Sunset Beach for the O’Neill World Cup and the Roxy Pro. We’ve got waves! Actually, it’s likely to be TOO BIG over the weekend!? Check out if it’s On or Off at 596-SURF, 638-RUSH or SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM or TRIPLE-CROWNOFSURFING.COM.

Thanks so much for your eyeballs! Please use them here again next week.

GQ, Dropping in 4 U!

 

Thankful for the blessings of great surf

Aloha, surfers!

Happy Thanksgiving ... what a great time to pause and appreciate our blessings!

Mother Nature’s blessings have been abundant in the surf department. Indeed, there have been so many swells I’ve lost count. Our biggest swell of the season (over 12 feet) is upon us on Aloha Friday. It’ll likely be too big for the final day of the Reef Hawaiian Pro. Now that’s big! It’s a better probability for Saturday, the last day of the holding period. However, nothing is set in stone. The outer reefs will be cracking Friday and Waimea Bay heaving on the inside bowl. If you’re trekking up to feel the energy, pack your patience or go early ... either way, be ready for some traffic in and out of the North Shore.

The North Pacific has notched up its storm size this past week, bringing us closer to the warning level range of 25 feet “crest to trough"or 15 feet local scale.What’s changed are higher wind speeds (45 knots) and a closer track of these more powerful storms moving toward Hawaii. Waves come from winds, so the higher the winds the bigger the waves. If they get close to Hawaii, say 1,000 miles, there’s little time for “decay.” Open ocean waves drop to half their size every 1,000 miles.

The 32nd annual Rell Sunn Menehune Surfing Championships are this Friday, Saturday and Sunday out at the Queen of Makaha’s favorite spot (guess).Yes, the future is on the Wild West this weekend and you should check it out. There’s only one Rell and only one event with that special something. The three divisions are Short, Long and Body Boarding. There are always awesome daily give aways and raffles. Every contestant gets a goody bag, T-shirt and lunch! Trophies and prizes will be awarded to the six finalists in each division. It’s keiki 12 years and younger, and Friday is the entry deadline, so go to RELLSUNN.COM or call 262-2488.

Also, check out the Rell Sunn Educational Fund - it’s all about awareness for breast cancer. Auntie Rell passed away Jan. 2, 1998, at the young, vital age of 46. Hawaii state senator and former surfing champ Fred Hemmings reflected, “Rell embodied everything that is great about surfing, but she grew larger than that. She represented the most basic values we hold so dear in Hawaii. Rell was always a giver and never a taker. To say she was a loving, giving and always contributing personification of the Hawaiian aloha spirit is a weak testament to the immeasurable sum of her vital goodness.” Indeed, in Rell’s own words: “The Aloha spirit is real simple. You give and you give and you give ... and you give from here (the heart), until you have nothing else to give.”(Quotes from Rell’s website)

To finish off this week, I want to send out my thanks to my daughter Chelsea, who at 16 has given me more pride and joy than I could have ever imagined. Her amazing mom Rene! My mom, dad, brother and two sisters. To all my incredible SNN team, radio and TV friends who support our beautiful ocean lifestyle. And special thanks to Ron, Don, Terri and the MidWeek ohana for opening up the door for me so I could go deeper into the wonderful world of surfing. Last but not least, to you for being here right now - your support and kind words inspire me each and every week! A million mahalos to you on this 2007 Thanksgiving weekend. Stoked!

For ON or OFF status on the 25th Annual Vans Triple Crown, call 596-SURF and 638-RUSH by 7 a.m. daily.

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

Also, mandatory mahalo to J/B of HAWAIIAN WATER SHOTS, who’s always in or at the lineup!

The first jewel is on, and Pancho gives back

Aloha, surfers!

God bless America, our veterans and all those in service of our freedom! I write this on a perfect Veterans Day with a heightened sense of blessing.The surf is 3-5 feet and the Vans Triple Crown kicked off on day one of its holding period. The early morning hours didn’t have a cloud in the sky! The winds were so light, every wave was peeling glass perfection. All spots were on all cylinders. This kind of day just doesn’t come along very often ... the fact that it fell on a special holiday honoring our freedom fighters ... Wow!

Yes, it’s “game on” for the 25th annual Vans Triple Crown of Surfing ... the North Shore is living up to its reputation for consistency and variety. The first jewel is the Reef Hawaiian Pro at Ali’i Beach Park, Haleiwa. Director Randy Rarick gave it a go two days in a row at 6:35 a.m.

They scored overhead waves as both men and women hit the lineup. To watch it live on the Internet, log on to triplecrownofsurfing.com - or better yet, hit the beach ... there’s nothing like being there.

The forecast is looking great to finish the Reef Hawaiian Pro before Thanksgiving.We see back-to-back swells on the charts. This is exactly why our seven-mile miracle is world-renowned - for its quantity and quality surf. There are more good breaks per mile than almost anywhere in the world. When nature creates storms in the North Pacific, we get waves!

After the “Reef,“the whole crew heads up the coast to the famed Sunset Beach for the second jewel: The O’Neill World Cup and Roxy Pro, Nov. 25-Dec. 6. Then last, but definitely not least - the third jewel of the Vans Triple Crown - the Billabong Pipeline Masters Dec. 8-20! It is,in fact,the biggest and heaviest of all three contests! The Pipe Masters is the only World Championship Tour (WCT) event of the Vans.This is the 10th and final contest on the Foster’s ASP World Tour. The first two competitions are in the World Qualifying Series (WQS) ... these secondary tier events allow for the top 15 rated men and top six women to be awarded a spot in the following year’s dream WCT tour. Every contest,every wave counts.But the Vans Triple Crown is the most coveted with the exception of a world title.

Got to give “hats off” to power-house Pancho Sullivan, who’s pledging 10 percent of his Triple Crown winnings this year to “Keep the North Shore Country.” Currently ranked 12th in the world on his second year on tour,Pancho’s a gentleman and a wave killer. Nobody except Sunny Garcia can move as much water as this guy.

Everyone loves him and respects him.Pancho also holds the high distinction of being the oldest surfer ever (33) to enter the Foster’s World Surfing Tour. That’s an amazing accomplishment when you think that 20 years ago, surfing careers were nearly over by age 30. And, being No. 12 on a world tour that rewards the progressive aerial assault with younger guys light of foot. Given that our North Shore big boy is 6 feet tall and 210 pounds; his rating is even more impressive. Thanks, Pancho, for the inspiration ... for giving back to surfing and our precious North Shore.

To pay it forward, please click keepthenorthshorecountry.org or call Gil Riviere at 808-220-2280, or e-mail .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)

GQ, dropping In 4 U!

P.S. Remember to call the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing hotlines first thing daily: 596-SURF and 638-RUSH. Log on to surfnewsnetwork.com as well. Mr.Rarick makes the call by 6:45-7 a.m. daily.

 

A big country swell, but town isn’t pau yet

Aloha, surfers, We just had our biggest swell of the season! It pumped out 6- to 10-foot local scale (10 to 18 feet crest to trough) on Sunday, Nov. 4 for the Xcel Pro day two. Sunset was near as good as it gets for this size. Light to moderate rare southeast winds blow exactly offshore for country, since it faces northwest. These are my personal favorite conditions, and many surfers agree. S/E winds blow into the rights perfectly - opening them up for tube riding. Add a big swell to a velvet surface texture and you have it all.

My last article mentioned “classic Sunset,” as I always do when I write about Xcel president Ed D’Ascoli’s infamous luck with scoring great waves. In the event’s 24-year history, there have only been a few years that Mother Nature did not put on a show of epic jacking Sunset.Yet, I always bow to her - as last week I wrote,“This three-day competition has permits until Nov. 10. This should be plenty time to end in classic Sunset Beach. But I don’t want to jinx it, so just pretend I didn’t write that.” The forecast was for 6 feet max, if lucky. We’ll, everyone got lucky - real lucky. The Kona low that brought all our nasty weather pushed out the most powerful surf yet. Ed D’Ascoli said, “This was, hands down, one of the top 10 contest days we’ve ever run in the 24-year history of the Xcel Pro.”(See XCELWETSUITS.COM) We needed it too, since this fall has been the smallest on record!

I guess we should simply call Ed’s fortune Xcel-ent. There’s just one more day to go, and at this point it looks like it’ll be the last day of the holding period, Saturday Nov. 10. No matter what comes, 2007 will be remembered.

Now, don’t stress if you can’t drive up - just watch it live from home on the Xcel website listed above. Surfing Live will be doing the great job it always does. The SNN team will have the “first call” for contest status (ON-OFF-STANDBY) at 596-surf and 638-rush by 7 a.m. daily. This will be the same M.O. for the Vans Triple Crown starting Nov. 12 at Haleiwa for the Reef Hawaiian Pro!

How about that whomper South? It peaked with some 6-foot sets with plenty 5-foot waves to go around. The main issue was the south Kona winds mushing it out. Just as offshore winds create great conditions like mentioned above, “onshores” do just the opposite. The reason is winds blowing offshore hit the front of waves, cleaning and shaping them - plus, winds from land to sea don’t have time and distance for chop to build. The Konas (like trades, but on opposite or wind-ward shores) can have hundreds of miles to build over the ocean surface and hit waves from behind; this causes them to break too soon and lose shape and “hollowness.” Of course, this is for normal breaks with gradual sandbars and reefs (not spots like Makapu’u and Sandy Beach, which are another story).

At any rate, getting any South swell this time of year is a good deal; plus, there’s more to come! Oh yeah, town isn’t done with us yet. Log onto SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM for the most accurate near- and long-range forecast.

Last but not least, a million mahalos to everyone who showed up for the Da Hui - Wolfpac Beach cleanup last Saturday. It just keeps growing. It’s great to see more youths getting involved, too. The country looks and feels much better, thanks to you.

Remember, there have been wastewater overflows from those heavy rains. The public is reminded to stay out of flood waters and storm water runoff. If the coastal waters are brown, please stay out. This is especially important for those with compromised immune systems and/or open sores or cuts. Always clean up well after going in the water. If you notice any signs of illness afterward, see a doctor at once. Any questions, call the Clean Water Branch of the state Department of Health at 586-4309.

I’ll see you in the clean lineups and back here next week. Thanks for being here!

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

 

Watching Sunny at Sunset

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers! What can we say? It’s paradise! Nature is supplying waves in every corner and will continue in this manner into next week. The weather charts show iffy beach weather this weekend as a Kona low nears, but you just can’t have it all ... all the time. It’s rather shocking to have all the south swells at this time of year - just in the past few weeks there have been five! That’s a better average than summer, by far. I’ll tell you, just when you think you’ve got Mother Nature figured out, she pulls a fast one. At least this time it’s on the positive side.

The Xcel Pro presented by No Fear kicked off at Sunset Beach Monday with 5-foot waves, and by the time you read this we may have run day two. There’s a 5-foot swell expected on Thursday. This three-day competition has permits until Nov. 10. This should be plenty time to end in classic Sunset Beach. But I don’t want to jinx it, so just pretend I didn’t write that.

Six-time Vans Triple Crown winner Sunny Garcia was doing well as of this writing and scored one of the highest heats of the day. Can you imagine if it was 10 feet instead of 5? Pray for surf - BIG surf. Sunny will be going off the hook because he’s hungry and just stoked to be able to compete since he’s been free. It will be special to watch him in this year’s Vans Triple Crown.You know he can do it again ... and nail No. 7.

On the Foster World Tour the boys are ripping it up in Brazil - the last stop before coming over for the Vans. If you want the complete

list of “probabilities” for the top three contenders for the world title, log onto SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM. Right now it really looks like Mick Fanning - and it’s possible he’ll be champ before coming to Hawaii, and very possible before Christmas. Don’t miss this year on the North Shore.

Friends of mine, Jay and Jana, asked me to help with a paper about the biz of surfing. I thought I’d throw in one of my responses. The questions were interesting and got me thinking - a rare moment.

Q: What do you think about companies that market the “surf image"vs. actual surf gear (i.e. sunglasses vs. surfboards)?

A: The latter (surfboards) are the ultimate “tool of core”... everything else comes in second and below. Equipment is everything, especially for the highest performers. But companies (surf shops) don’t make the bank on boards (the lowest margins of all goods sold) ... This is why we know it isn’t all about the money for shapers and core shops. Then there are those surf shops that know this is the best way to project they’re a “real” surf shop, but really it’s mostly about the bucks coming off the top selling “soft brands”(image). How can you claim to be a surf shop without offering a surf-board? If you give surfers the clue you’re not core, you’ll lose them. Quiksilver’s main man has one job staying true to its original roots while going public at more than $1 billion in annuals to make sure the brand stays core in the public eye, or go down like all the rest who’ve run their natural cycle (OP, Gotcha etc). Lines last about 10-15 years if you’re really good at the business of image and quality. The fact that Billabong and Quik have gone far beyond that cycle and crossed generations make them legends. Any company in the world could learn from their model.

Well, I’m exhausted from thinking too much and need to go surf now ... on a real surfboard in real waves ... for real!

Catch you in the lineup and back here next week in MidWeek! Will we have a new Xcel Pro and world champ?!

Don’t forget about the Da HuiWolfpack Beach Clean up this Saturday Nov. 3 ... meet at V-Land at 8:30 a.m.! Log on to SNNHAWAII.COM

GQ, dropping in 4 U!

 

Rocktober swells and Xcel-lent Sunset

Aloha, surfers and beachgoers!

Wow, what